Miroku .38 revolver

[Malamute]

Cylinder rotation is backwards, like Colt. The locking notches in the cylinder arent quite like Colt in location. Colt notches are offset more, not centered like S&W and this one.

Some of the parts, like grips, and hammer profile look Smith-ish, but mechanicals look more Colt-ish.

[willie]

Malamute's comments are correct. I should have explained that the hand, part hitting cylinder ratchets to turn cylinder, is made differently than either Colt or Smith. This bit of minutiae is relevant only if the reader has seen both types of hands, and then, it's still small talk.

[Joe in PNG]

Update- sadly, when shooting DA, the cylinder gets waaaay off time. I may have to get rid of the poor thing, because it's such an oddball and I doubt we can find parts for it.
Other than Numrich, who else buys guns for parts?

[Malamute]

When you say "way off time", do you mean its just not rotating far enough to lock into position, or goes past the lock-up point?

If the first, if you can determine exactly how it functions, from observation*, and know exactly what part of the hand to add metal to, Id suggest having the tip of the hand built up with TIG weld and file/stone to fit. So what if the hardness isnt ideal. Maybe if its softer than original, it may only last 2000 rds instead of 4000. How much are you going to shoot it? And if it wears and goes out of time again, you can do the fix again. It would beat not being able to use it at all or selling it for parts for next to nothing.

A friend from AK had an old shotgun of some sort that wasnt working right. Parts werent available. I figured out the problem, took it to my old boss, he TIG welded the worn nub on the carrier and I filed it back to shape, it worked fine. Guy was quite happy his old beater bear gun worked again. Who knows how many rounds of life it had left after the fix, it worked, when it didnt work, I guess hed figure something out to fix it again.

EDIT: Hey, look, a picture of the insides. it looks like a two tooth hand, similar to Colt. that would seem to indicate that the tip (upper surface) of the lower tooth is most likely responsible for the last part of cylinder rotation into locking position. That would be the part to build up if the problem is its not rotating far enough to lock when cycled to fire.

http://i.imgur.com/VFJlrQih.jpg

http://smith-wessonforum.com/firearm...revolvers.html

This was my point about "from observation", because how it functions would of course matter in how to repair it. many dont realize the the side if the hand in S&Ws is responsible for the last part of cylinder rotation, and an oversize hand is thicker, it doesnt have a tallet tooth on the hand.

[Joe in PNG]

It seems to go past the lock up point & spins loose, and the hammer hits the rims instead of the primer. I ran a bunch of brand new snap caps, and they all got really dinged up all over the rims.

It's also a $300 gun, so I'm not going to spend a lot of money to fix it.

[Malamute]

That could be something simple like the spring for the cylinder locking bolt is grungy, gummed up from old oil, or got kinked when someone had it apart and put it back together. The bolt and spring look like S&W parts, a simple coil spring. I think for Smiths they cost about $2. Does it have much tension just pushing down on it when the cylinder is out? Some spray gun cleaner may help, or plain old bore solvent run into the bolt slot, or fresh oil, then blow it out.


It doesnt sound like the hand is the problem, but a wild guess to weld up the tip of the tooth would probably be about $15. Just saying, I doubt its anything thats likely to count as serious money if its either part (hand or locking bolt or spring) that was the problem, and you dont mind tinkering with it.

[Joe in PNG]

Update- some bits inside were broken. It would work, but isn't trustworthy.
Happily, they just happened to have a nice and sound little Model 10 snub with a T Grip. Farewell, little Miroku! And hello new S&W.

[Malamute]

Well, it sounds like a better end result than expected.