Modified Klarus XT2C & Raven Clip, and other clip mods

[Clusterfrack]

This thread shows my mods to the new upgraded Klarus XT2C 2xCR123/18650 "tactical" flashlight to make it fit the Raven Clip. I welcome your comments and any other clip mods.

After losing my M&P "tactical" pen at PDX airport*, I wanted a slightly larger flashlight that would hopefully pass TSA restrictions.

The problem is, nearly all flashlight pocket clips COMPLETELY SUCK. Even Surefire clips suck--they catch on car seats and bend. The one and only pocket clip that meets my requirements is the Raven Pocket Clip for SF P and G lights. This clip fits over the Klarus XT2C cap threads perfectly, but the gap isn't sufficient to activate the light.

After 45 minutes on the shop bench:


The finished product:


Note: the clip required a bit of bending using a bench vice so it's tight to the light body.

So far, I really like this light. The size is just right for an EDC light that can be used defensively. Default is high brightness in both modes. The secondary switch is pretty nice too. This is the first light I would consider using the strobe on. It will be replacing my NiteCore MT10C for EDC (another great light).



____
*TSA officer: Sir, you cannot bring this Kuboton on an aircraft.

Me: Um, I'm pretty sure that's a pen. You can write with it.

TSA officer: It's tactical. You can't bring it on an aircraft.

Me: [Sigh] Would you like a new pen?

TSA officer: Sir. It's unethical for you to offer me a gift.

Me: Have a nice day.

[vandal]

What did the 45 minutes of shop work entail in addition to bending the clip?

[Clusterfrack]

Sorry--I wasn't clear. Filing and polishing the endcap to remove approx. 1/16" of material. The nickel was to protect the spring.

[ssb]

Looks like JB weld on the q-tip... did you apply that to keep the clip in one position?

[BobLoblaw]

I tried to do the same about a year ago with caveman-esque precision and ended up with a chewed up exterior to my XT2C. So, kudos to you, Clusterfrack. I'd really like to know exactly how you did it.

[Clusterfrack]

Looks like JB weld on the q-tip... did you apply that to keep the clip in one position?

Q-tip was to remove aluminum shavings from the threads. No glue needed because the clip now fits perfectly between the cap and body.

[Clusterfrack]

I tried to do the same about a year ago with caveman-esque precision and ended up with a chewed up exterior to my XT2C. So, kudos to you, Clusterfrack. I'd really like to know exactly how you did it.

Ok. I'll try to describe how I did it. Let me know if this isn't clear.

I needed to remove a lot of metal from the cap, while not altering the angle of the circumference of the cap. As well, I didn't want to bugger the gold-plated spring. The best way would be to use a milling machine or a lathe, but I didn't have access to those right now.

I clamped a file to my workbench, and inserted a nickel into the cap. The spring is protected by the nickel.

I measured the amount I needed to remove and eyeballed the spot on the inside of the cap. Removing too much will keep the o-ring from engaging, and ruin the water resistance. So, I took my time and measured often. That's why it took 45 min...

I moved the cap along the file, rotating by 10-15 deg each stroke. This maintains the angle of the cap. Periodically, I cleaned the file and used canned air to blow the chaff out of the cap. As I got close to my target length, I tested the cap on the flashlight body--but before I did this, I used a Q-tip to clean the threads.

When the clip fit tightly, but could be rotated by hand without unscrewing the cap, I polished up the cap circumference with 600-grit polishing paper (also keeping that nickel in the cap to protect the spring).

Note: You also might try filing down the ring on the clip so you don't have to remove quite as much metal from the cap.

[BobLoblaw]

Ok. I'll try to describe how I did it. Let me know if this isn't clear.

I needed to remove a lot of metal from the cap, while not altering the angle of the circumference of the cap. As well, I didn't want to bugger the gold-plated spring. The best way would be to use a milling machine or a lathe, but I didn't have access to those right now.

I clamped a file to my workbench, and inserted a nickel into the cap. The spring is protected by the nickel.

I measured the amount I needed to remove and eyeballed the spot on the inside of the cap. Removing too much will keep the o-ring from engaging, and ruin the water resistance. So, I took my time and measured often. That's why it took 45 min...

I moved the cap along the file, rotating by 10-15 deg each stroke. This maintains the angle of the cap. Periodically, I cleaned the file and used canned air to blow the chaff out of the cap. As I got close to my target length, I tested the cap on the flashlight body--but before I did this, I used a Q-tip to clean the threads.

When the clip fit tightly, but could be rotated by hand without unscrewing the cap, I polished up the cap circumference with 600-grit polishing paper (also keeping that nickel in the cap to protect the spring).

Note: You also might try filing down the ring on the clip so you don't have to remove quite as much metal from the cap.

Awesome, thanks

[OnionsAndDragons]

Great job on the mod!

Also, thank you for bringing the existence of those RCS pocket clips to my attention.

[Gadfly]

1100 lumens per the spec sheet... for 2.5 hours.... damn...

How hot does it get?

I have a 250 lumen light in my pocket. it does most everything I need, but I am curious about your light now...