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Thread: Blindsided by S&W 43C

  1. #1

    Blindsided by S&W 43C

    I was out shooting with a friend the other day when he brings out the 43C. Other than reading about the Claude Werners of this world and a few other posts where folks talked about them being a option for people with limited hand strength I'd never really paid much attention to them. This thing was more fun than a little bit. I can't get over the sights on it, why can't S&W put that Big Dot on all their J Frames??? I enjoyed it so much I didn't even notice the trigger pull being stiffer than my 642. Maybe it's just the .22 that brings out the kid in me but I really enjoyed that revolver. I can't think of a single reason I "need" one but I sure would like one. I went on Gunbroker and it looks like they're making new ones. Maybe if it had that damn lock in the side I'd be able to fight this urge but they don't have the lock so there goes that excuse not to buy.


    Hell bent on being intentionally anachronistic

  2. #2
    Member JHC's Avatar
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    I think the 43C and 351 .22 mag both seem pretty cool.
    “Remember, being healthy is basically just dying as slowly as possible,” Ricky Gervais

  3. #3
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    How much stiffer is the trigger pull weight than the 642? I always think a .22 revolver would be great for my mom, who is almost 70, but I think the trigger pull might be a little tough (arthritis), particularly if they are stiffer than a standard j-frame. I think my j-frame is close to 11 pounds on the scale.

  4. #4
    Maybe someone can give a actual number. I've been looking up things about it since shooting it and I want to say around 14 pounds give or take a few. I've also read where Werner put lighter springs in his without hurting the ignition with certain varieties of .22.


    Hell bent on being intentionally anachronistic

  5. #5
    Site Supporter SeriousStudent's Avatar
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    I have hand one for several years and love it. It does have a heavier trigger pull. I'll see if I can get a weight on mine and post it.

    It's a great trainer combined with CTC laser grips. But you do want to use a snap cap to avoid damage to the firing pin.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by SeriousStudent View Post
    But you do want to use a snap cap to avoid damage to the firing pin.
    In some cases people have also damaged the cylinder face as well. I don't know if this is still the case with more modern frame mounted firing pins, but snap caps are a must as previously stated.

  7. #7
    Site Supporter SeriousStudent's Avatar
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    Yes, they make some plastic ones, but this revolver chews them up pretty fast. I bought a bagful of the A-Zoom aluminum ones in the bargain cave at Cabela's a while back, and they seem to work better.

    I dug out the trigger gauge. Mine clocks in at 12.4 pounds, but it's honestly very smooth. I polished the innards with a set of 2000-grit and 8000-grit Japanese waterstones. And that is all I did, was polish.

    I can't remember if it was Scott or Randy at Apex Tactical, but they told me that their J frame trigger kit was not designed to work with the 43c.

    Hope that helps.

    ETA: I posted while Tom was typing.

    Dang, that is pretty sweet! I just ordered a bag, thanks for the link.
    Last edited by SeriousStudent; 08-04-2017 at 08:36 PM. Reason: bad timing as always on my part.

  8. #8
    Member Wheeler's Avatar
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    Wollf makes a reduced weight main spring, the previous owner of mine had one installed. I've yet to have any failures to ignite with mine related to the lighter main spring.

    The firing pin on the 43c and the 351c strikes the lower portion of the rim rather than the upper portion of the rim like every other S&W rimfire revolver. That's why the Apex kits won't work. It's most likely why they don't come with internal locks either.
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  9. #9
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeriousStudent View Post
    I polished the innards with a set of 2000-grit and 8000-grit Japanese waterstones. And that is all I did, was polish.
    Ive been using wet-or-dry sandpaper, 320, then 400, then 600, on a piece of glass. You can go finer, 1000 or 1200 I believe, but 600 grit is a mirror polish, making very sharp image reflections, a finer polish than any factory finish Ive seen. The idea is 320 to clean up factory machine marks (or file marks if youve been working on something, like flat topping a Ruger SA), the 400 to remove the 320 marks, and 600 to remove the 400 marks. Stop well before you think you should, you dont have to take off a lot of metal unless simply going for looks, and the dimensions arent that critical. A small nail, head and tip removed for a uniform diameter, and a small piece of the wet-or dry taped to it (tape one edge, wind around the nail and tape), and chucked in a drill (slow speed) can polish inside the hammer and trigger pin holes. The small triangular ceramic file stones from Brownells also cleans up many spots, and is perfect for cleaning up trigger and hammer edges and corners where they are often sharp. Clean it with warm tap water and dish soap, keeps them looking new. They turn black with metal particles quickly.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom_Jones View Post
    Is there really such a thing as a .22LR snap cap? A-Zoom calls theirs "Action Proving Rounds" and says they aren't for dry fire:

    Attachment 18752



    I use yellow drywall anchors.

    Attachment 18753
    Claude Werner (AKA THE TACTICAL PROFESSOR) recommends the dry wall anchors, too. You're in good company Tom!


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