S&W 315 NightGuard

[Dagga Boy]

Don't know if this is the same one, but....

http://smith-wessonforum.com/guns-sa...ght-guard.html

[OlongJohnson]

There's one on GB right now.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/779742994

The last few I've seen sell have gone for ~$1300, so the BIN is pretty right on the market. This might end up being an even better deal if it doesn't end up in a bidding war.

I really want one of these, but can't really justify it even at $1100. Good luck to anyone who jumps on it.

[SD]

I have always kicked myself hard for not purchasing one of these when in production, that said I don't think the Seller is off the price point from what the NG315 is bringing in todays market. To avoid this level of regret again I ordered a Performance Center 640.

There's one on GB right now.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/779742994

The last few I've seen sell have gone for ~$1300, so the BIN is pretty right on the market. This might end up being an even better deal if it doesn't end up in a bidding war.

I really want one of these, but can't really justify it even at $1100. Good luck to anyone who jumps on it.

[Sherman A. House DDS]

I like these guns, but always thought the trigger pull felt like a staple gun, and sounded and felt like one too.


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[MolonLabe416]

Is there anything that a good ‘smith can do to improve the trigger, or is there some oddness to this model?

[OlongJohnson]

Only reason I can see for it to be different than any other K frame is the surface texture of the anodizing. Anodizing has very low coefficient of friction inherently, but if it's on a rough surface, all that roughness is preserved with extreme hardness, so it can be rough. Same applies to any anodized guns, of course.

[03RN]

I'm not sure if it's the same on scandium but you can wear down the rough texture and still have the hardness. Anodizing does harden a little into the metal.

[jbark303]

Hello, I am looking for some help. In 2009, I purchased a 315NG to use for competitive shooting. However, I had only put about 200 rounds through it and didn't use it as it was intended. It went into the safe and was essentially forgotten, until recently. After doing some research, I see that it is kind of collectors item. Do you have any suggestions on selling the firearm? I would like to have it on Gunbroker by the end of the week.

Thank you for your time and consideration.

[Lon]

Hello, I am looking for some help. In 2009, I purchased a 315NG to use for competitive shooting. However, I had only put about 200 rounds through it and didn't use it as it was intended. It went into the safe and was essentially forgotten, until recently. After doing some research, I see that it is kind of collectors item. Do you have any suggestions on selling the firearm? I would like to have it on Gunbroker by the end of the week.

Thank you for your time and consideration.

I think you could save yourself the hassle and sell it here if you’re a member. Lotsa guys here would be interested.

[1911Nut]

They did a whole NightGuard program across the line.

http://www.gunblast.com/SW-Nightguards.htm

6-shot was the 315, K-frame
7-shot was the 386, L-frame
8-shot was the 327, N-frame

L- and N-frames are significantly larger. The 315NG weighs about the same as those two because of the steel, not Ti, cylinder, which also eliminates a long-term durability worry when actually shooting a limited-production S&W. Quick googling says they've never made a Ti K-frame cylinder, although I didn't exactly go down the rabbit hole on that.

The 315NG was listed at 23.8 oz vs. 33.5 oz for the current 2.75-in all-steel Model 66 Combat Magnum.

A 640 Pro J-frame is listed at 22.4 oz, so a 315NG is basically the same weight as the most shootable J-frame, but with a big step up in shootability and an extra round. Just not as pocket-friendly.

Don't forget the Model 396. It was on an L frame, but was a 5-shot in caliber .44 Special.

I bought one as soon as they came on the market and was convinced it was going to be the perfect big bore, moderately sized carry revolver.

I have never been more disappointed in any gun in any caliber in my life. It shot FIVE (5) inches to the right at 15 YARDS. That was with several loads . . . . factory and hand loads, cast and jacketed bullets, and 180, 220, and 250 grain bullet weights.

It was also with three or four experienced shooters, both freestyle and from a braced position on a bench. At approximately round 90, it completely locked up and the action would not cycle. The rear sight is not adjustable, and the barrel appeared to be installed not properly clocked.

I sent the gun back to S&W three times and they only managed to get the action to cycle, but it felt like they had added about two pounds to both the DA and SA trigger pull. They never corrected the POA/POI problem, and indicated they did not plan to do so. A gun shop owner just HAD to have it and offered me a Glock G20 and some cash in exchange for the revolver, so the deal was completed.

The G20 was not my cup of tea, either. That was a bad 6 month period for me and trying new guns.

I don't intend to make this post a rant about S&W revolvers, but I have previously declared myself the residing world champion on owning more POS S&W revolvers (J,K,L, & N frames) than anyone. I have owned ONE (1) that was (and still is) a great gun . . . . a pre-lock N frame 629 Mountain Revolver in .44 Magnum caliber. That gun has been an absolute delight. But I guess even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and then.