I've used the pins on an AR barrel nut spammer on an armorers wrench for an 870 before, if you've got one handy.
--Josh
“Formerly we suffered from crimes; now we suffer from laws.” - Tacitus.
Regarding the factory style tool I posted, the thing that makes it most effective is that part of the tube that extends below the spanner tabs into the body of the forend sleeve. If you have a problem child (rusted nut and swollen forend) the spanner type wrenches too often just torque out of the tab cuts without applying sufficient force to the nut.
Last edited by 41magfan; 07-26-2017 at 08:54 AM.
The path of least resistance will seldom get you where you need to be.
This wrench:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod17206.aspx
plus Kroil should do the trick. One tip is to remove the barrel from the shotgun and fully retract the forend so that the action bars are fully supported by the receiver. Installing the forend this way also helps keep the new forend clocked correctly.
"It's surprising how often you start wondering just how featureless a desert some people's inner landscapes must be."
-Maple Syrup Actual
Not removing fore end with action bars from receiver will cause you to scratch up magazine tube. Too, you will put too much stress on the action bars unless this unit is removed.You're working with extremely fine threads, which if rusted or crudded will cause much difficulty. Triple ditto on the Kroil/Blaster advice. Check out auto parts store section with penetrating oil. After application, hit the area with an electric hair dryer to get it going. Let it soak for 2 or 3 hours. Before using wrench this time, use hair dryer again. Even better is a propane torch lightly applied. Very lightly. If it does not move, stop and rethink. Beware of wrench jumping out of notches.