Inquiring minds want to know. I always thought this was a drop in part.Originally Posted by Bigghoss
Inquiring minds want to know. I always thought this was a drop in part.
Drop it in and let it wear in--it is not really a precision part. Occasionally you might (supposedly) find a problem and then need to take a small file to any part of the block that seems to be causing too much wear to the frame, but I doubt you will much of thatever see that. That is why you can drop in other 92 barrels with their own locking blocks.
Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits - Mark Twain
Tact is the knack of making a point without making an enemy / Where is the wisdom we have lost in knowledge?
My view is that it was a mistake by the Army to spec a 20# spring. The worst that will happen if you don't bust a (working) primer with the first trigger pull is that it will fire the second time. The worst that will happen with too heavy a mainspring is that many of your users--who receive little training in the first place--will grow to hate and fear the DA pull and throw the first shot anyway. Military gear needs to be robust, but they should have gone with a 16# spring in the first place. Shooting would have much improved.
I have converted a number of range officers where I shoot to the 92 platform simply by showing them what a D spring alone can do to the 92's trigger pull (and when they buy a Beretta I give them a D spring and show them how to install it). Most of the RO's are former service guys and "know" that the M9/92 is a pretty useless gun. They are amazed by what the D spring does.
See post #81 on page 9: Reproduced here so you guys don't have to search for it (hey, I do it for you!)
Quick update: After approximately 12K rounds, I decided to replace my 1996-vintage OEM Gen 2 locking block with the current one, a Gen 3 https://berettaforum.net/vb/showpost...3&postcount=18 (While my 92D was manufactured in 1996, I didn't actually buy it, BNIB until 2006, which was its actual commencement of use date).
And a lengthier discussion of Beretta locking blocks is here: https://berettaforum.net/vb/showthread.php?t=45325
While mine with its OEM Gen 2 was running just fine, I decided it would be prudent simply to replace it, as "normal" locking block anomalies have been seen to crop up as early as the 12K point. (Outlier issues, while unusual, can crop up both earlier and later, and "normal" forecasted locking block longevity is around the 15K to 20K roundcount from what I've read and researched on these earlier locking blocks, and at the 20K to 30K interval for the later current Gen 3 locking blocks. So replacing mine at its roundcount was arguably overkill, but I'm considering it inexpensive preventive maintenance.
Erik Stern at BUSA (and a p-f member and participant) and I recently had an excellent discussion on it; he suggested that the replacement block normally doesn't need to be fitted, but to watch for any eccentric wear in the slide from the previous block buy looking for an even fit with no light bars showing when the new one is installed. Mine seems to fit nicely with no additional fitting needed. If fitting is needed, it's essential to do it, as the replacement block's longevity can be severely compromised by the eccentric wear/stress it has to deal with.
While a pretty straightforward and simple process, BUSA has an excellent Youtube segment that I strongly recommend watching: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWO5cBl1FvI
It's easy to follow, with some very succinct tips. For a punch, since the retaining pin is a roll pin, I used a roll pin punch, which speeds up and stabilizes the process (both on pin removal and installation), and eliminates damage to the old roll pin (which of course I immediately lost on my garage workshop floor when attempting to bag it for potential re-use...).
Beretta has 2 locking block kits, one with a replacement recoil spring and the other without it. Since I'm running a Wilson Combat 14# silicon chrome recoil spring, I opted for the kit without, which includes the locking block, plunger pin, and retaining roll pin.
I wiped down the new block and plunger pin with Weapon Shield prior to installation, and also placed some Lucas Red "N" Tacky #2 grease in the portion of the barrel lug that the nose of the locking block fits and moves.
It's really just a 5 minute job at most.
Best, Jon
Last edited by JonInWA; 03-02-2019 at 01:54 PM.
Jon, you’ve been a great resource on Beretta, particularly the D guns, thank you!
I know you’ve had experiences with both- would you recommend/prefer the TCU or the CS trigger return spring? This gun is going to see a ton of dry fire.
I do intend to get a locking block and overall chrome silicon spring replacement/refresh. My hope is to send the gun to Wilson, because I’d also like the mag guide, magwell, mag release, and to have the serrations turned into checkering.
I have a question about the Wilson dehorning:
I’ve noticed hot spots on my hand from the beavertail and at the base of the triggerguard. Does the Wilson de-horning address these areas, and if not, can I get them to perform it as additional work?
Last edited by Bergeron; 03-02-2019 at 02:47 PM.
Per the PF Code of Conduct, I have a commercial interest in the StreakTM product as sold by Ammo, Inc.
Bergeron, apparently I'm one of the relatively few people who successfully and satisfactorily ran the Wolff TCU (also sold by Wilson Combat). Before I got it, I had an in-depth discussion with Wolff, and went with the Reduced Power/Lighter TCU. However, several caveats for current use: Mine was used successfully with the OEM Beretta triggerbar-it did not have sufficient power with the Wilson Combat triggerbar, so I went with the Wilson Combat lever-type chrome silcon spring, which performs very nicely. If I was to go back to the TCU, with the Wilson Combat triggerbar you'll need to go with at least with the Factory/INS or the Extra Power TCU.
My counsel is to go with the Wilson Combat chrome silicon trigger return spring.
The Wilson Combat dehorning I have no experience with. What I'd suggest would be to look carefully at the dehorning on the Langdon LTT 92 Elite with the carry bevel option, and go with that as a beveling guide.
https://www.langdontactical.com/92-elite-ltt/
On my personal 92D, I really haven't experienced any issues that I felt needed beveling, but I can see where it might be worthwhile to do. Talk with Wilson and Langdon first is my advice.
Regarding checkering on the frontstrap, if you're going with a VZ Wilson Combat or Langdon LTT ultra thin grip, I don't think i'ts really necessary, because (in my case) the main grip pressure is transferred from the frontstrap to the sides, and the G10 material, especially with the Langdon LTT checkering is extremely effective. YMMV, given your hand size and interface with the receiver. If you already have one of the ultra thin G10 grips, that'll give you a good reference if you really need the checkering.
Regarding the extended magazine release, I have one of the Wilson Combat round checkered ones. While a pain in the butt to install (I had to have my gunsmith do it), I like it, as it definitely makes the magazine replacement process easier and more ergonomic. If you shoot IDPA or USPSA, I'd counsel getting one of the Beretta extended ones; otherwise you're immediately bounced from Stock Service Pistol to Enhanced Service Pistol division (which is probably why Wilson Combat puts an extended Beretta Beretta release on the Wilson/Beretta collaboration 92s, and I believe Ernest Langdon does the same with his).
With certain holsters, the extended magazine release can be activated by pressure placed on the sides of the holster if it covers the magazine release-check carefully that your holster doesn't do this when using for duty/carry.
I also decided to go with Beretta's solid steel recoil spring guide rod, but any of the Beretta (including the polymer one) or Wilson choices are quite good-it's really just a matter of personal taste in my opinion.
Good luck with the project-definitely keep us posted.
Best, Jon
This is a fantastic post, Jon, lots to digest.
WC CS trigger return spring it is! I'll ask Wilson once I put in the gunsmithing order. I've seen the pics and listened/read Mr. Langdon's commentary on de-horning. For an example, I get brutal Glock-knuckle on un-modified guns. I'd love his work, but am planning on the Wilson route. I sold a gun that paid for this one, and gunsmithing to a couple of others. I'm selling another gun that'll pay for the work I plan to have happen to this one. Budget neutral gunsmithing FTW, lol. I'm hesitant to reach out until I have the money firmly in hand, to avoid wasting anyone's time.
I'm very happy to hear about the effectiveness of the side panels on the G10. I want the checkering because this will be my first opportunity to own a gun with Wilson checkering, and it's kind of fun that's it's not going to be on a 1911. I like a lot grip texture all over, anyways. I'm defintely missing out on side grip texture on my support hand with the rubber Houges, so it'll be great to get that.
Your comments about the mag release is much appreciated. Except for my 1911s, I use my trigger finger to release the mags. Trying the process out with my left (weak) hand, I get the sense that a large, smooth button would work best for me, I can accept an ESP placement- the only other gun that I have that's IDPA-appropriate is in CDP, but that is a good point you make- maybe I should get the Beretta release and just file off the checkering.
I pulled the locking block out and I didn't notice any uneven wear or cracks, which was nice. I still plan to have a new block along with the new springs. The trigger and guide rod are steel, which I appreciate.
My slow fire is acceptable, and I can keep most of that accuracy with timed fire, in rapid fire I'm inducing some horizontal wiggle into the front sight, which I'm trying to work through in dry fire. I've made a commitment to myself and the gun to not take up more than about a pound of pull on any shot, and to keep a consistent speed on the press- if I start slow I'm finishing slow, and if I start fast, I'm finishing fast. I hope that this discipline will eventually give me rewards on my other guns.
Last edited by Bergeron; 03-02-2019 at 07:10 PM.
Per the PF Code of Conduct, I have a commercial interest in the StreakTM product as sold by Ammo, Inc.
Here's the latest holster update regarding my 92D, shamelessly linked from the holster portion of the forum (so everything regarding my 92D journey can be found in one place here on this thread for those of you who are tracking/following):
https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....ecommendations
(The entries on the last page, page 11, detail out my eventual shoulder holster choice and decision logic, and why I decided to go with my initial concealment shoulder holster for the 92D as opposed to my HKs)
The specific shoulder holster I chose:
https://www.berettausa.com/en-us/ra-...n-lthr/e02226/
Best, Jon
Last edited by JonInWA; 04-07-2019 at 01:57 PM.
Thanks for sharing Jon. I look forward to tracking your progress and updates. BTW, Thanks to you and this thread, I have two 92D's - Both are full size and I have done the modified TJIAB, new rear sights, new grips, Wilson TRS, etc, etc... The D models are not as fast as DA/SA for follow up shots but for all the reasons Yeti and others have mentioned it works for me for CCW and just plain fun. Cheers amigo
Johnny Walker
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