I would be interested.
I would be interested.
Likewise, I would be interested as well.
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I am interested but it is for a project that is so far down the priority list that it is unlikely to actually happen very soon, so I would not feel right about asking you to spend time on this. Also, I am not particularly handy, so I would be very unlikely to attempt the work myself. I would imagine that the biggest concern would be lining everything up and fixturing everything so that the dovetail cut is across the top of the slide rather than offset slightly to one side.
For those interested.
Once the barrel is cut, it is face and crowned with tools obtained at brownells.
Using calpilars to measure the top of the front sight dove tail mark the barrel for the location of the dove tail. Then mark the barrel for the depth of the dove tail. I use a hacksaw since I can control it best, I cut the front and back of the dove tail leaving the cut not quite to the correct depth.
This is the dove tail after hack saw before the dremel tool.
Next I use a thin grinding wheel or a cut off wheel in the dremel, I remove the rest of the barrel that is in the dove tail.
This is the dove tail after dremel before files.
Now it is time for the files. You have to use a dove tail file that fits the sight dove tail. This front sight was off a kimber and is a 65 degree dove tail. Brownells list the dove tail dimensions for the sights in their catalog and you can get the file that matches the sight from brownells. The notch in the barrel is filed to look like a dove tail. This crude notch was too narrow for my dove tail file so a triangle needle file was used to open the notch up enough for the dove tail file. I take my time watching to see that I keep the file at right angles to the lines on the top of the barrel. The dove tail file has three sides. One side cuts or is the file and two sides are safe or are smooth, so you only file one direction. I work on the depth first and get the bottom of the dove straight with the top of the rear sight. I use a level placed on top of the rear sight, making sure the level is at right angle to the frame. Then with the file resting in the dove tail look at the level on the rear sight to keep the bottom of the dove tail even with the level.
This is an after photo that shows the technique.
The pencil isn't straight with the level but it demonstrates how the dove tail is aligned with the rear sight. You don't have to use a level, any straight edge will work. Once the bottom of the dove tail is straight with the rear sight and at the correct depth then the dove tail is widened. Make sure the file is at right angle to the barrel by looking down at the file and barrel and keep the smooth side of the file flat to the bottom of the dove tail. When the dove tail and front sight are close to fitting it's time to go slow. I use a few file strokes (7) on each front and back of the dove tail then try the sight in the dove tail. I try tapping the sight in. If the sight is too tight tap the sight out and widen the dove tail. GO SLOW. It is easy to take out too much metal. The sight doesn't have to be pounded in, more like tapped in with a brass rod. You can slightly flare the dove tail on one side to help start the sight. The front sight is tapped into place to the same measurement as the old front sight. If the old sights were correct.
The end result.
It's not real hard. Take your time and think about what you are doing. The hardest part is starting cause you're afraid to mess up. Take your time, measure a lot. Think about what your doing. You can get a piece of steel, wood or the bottom of the old barrel you cut off to practice the dove tail.
Hope this helps.
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That's very, very neat. Thank you very much for taking the time to post your methods and your thoughts.
I hope your pistol brings you much enjoyment.
As I re-opened this thread to see the latest posts, I was wondering "how does he perform the muzzle and crown shaping once he makes the cut?"
Thanks for the concise photo essay.
How will you refinish the white metal parts? Cold blue?
"If I ever needed to hunt in a tuxedo, then this would be the rifle I'd take." - okie john
"Not being able to govern events, I govern myself." - Michel De Montaigne
Wow, that is excellent for hand work. I would guess that simply using the appropriate dovetail cutter would be simpler, but of course would require more expensive equipment. I guess using hand tools allows proceeding slowly and checking progress along the way, but it also seems to present more chances to mess something up.
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Last edited by BillSWPA; 06-05-2017 at 11:23 PM.
Any legal information I may post is general information, and is not legal advice. Such information may or may not apply to your specific situation. I am not your attorney unless an attorney-client relationship is separately and privately established.
This makes me want to buy a cheap bull rifle barrel and practice cutting a couple of dozen dovetails. Or find a friend with a mill
Last edited by Poconnor; 06-06-2017 at 10:13 AM.