Originally Posted by jnc36rcpd
https://www.fenix-store.com/fenix-uc...FQKTaQodVK0MYQ
This cost me 90 bucks but I've saved at least that much not having to buy batteries over the last two years.
https://www.fenix-store.com/fenix-uc...FQKTaQodVK0MYQ
This cost me 90 bucks but I've saved at least that much not having to buy batteries over the last two years.
What are your thoughts on its durability? Have you encountered any issues with it in those two years? I was always skeptical about USB charged lights but the near 1,000 lumens along with it being dual fuel has me interested.
I carry this at work (mostly nights) and it gets used nightly. I've dropped it and fallen on it a couple of times. I charge it a couple of times a week with normal use. And when it gets low on charge the selector lever turns red.
I have a 6365 holster on my duty belt. I prefer the low ride. I think shorter officers prefer the mid ride, since the low ride is uncomfortable sitting in the car. I'm 6-01, and the low ride works for me. I prefer the 6360/6365 holster (ALS/SLS) for better retention than the 6280 (which is our issued holster). The draw, if done correctly, isn't any slower in the 6360 versus the 6280.
If you get a mid or low ride holster and end up wanting the other, Safariland sells the belt slides for $20, so you can change back and forth with minimal hassle.
I wouldn't buy any duty light that didn't use Li-ion batteries. These charge fast, and don't have any of the hassles of the ni-cad or nimh batteries. The Streamlight Strion LED lights are excellent. I personally use a Fenix duty light, and it's good to go. I got a model that uses a cradle to charge, rather than USB cable, but that's just me.
Does your agency allow you to mount the cradle to the interior of the car? If so how are you doing it? Ours did in the past but went to a different cage and now guys can't screw/bolt anything to the new cage. I've seen some guys used industrial strength velcro to mount the cradle however, it seems those fall off over time.
"There is magic in misery. You need to constantly fail. Always bite off more than you can chew, put yourself in situations where you don't succeed then really analyze why you didn't succeed." - Dean Karnazes www.sbgillinois.com
My experience with self-adhesive Velcro:
1) Clean the surfaces. Rubbing alcohol is a good low-residue cleaner.
2) Make the piece on the fixed surface larger than the piece on the part being mounted. This decreases the local stresses and makes it less likely to lift.
3) Make round corners when you cut the pieces. Sharp corners will be the first places to lift.
Good points. I use acetone to clean surfaces I'm going to velcro. Now I just put whichever light is charging in my bag on the passenger seat. Since I'm using a USB rechargeable I can just drop the light into a pocket on my bag, and throw my spare light on my vest while the other light charges.
"There is magic in misery. You need to constantly fail. Always bite off more than you can chew, put yourself in situations where you don't succeed then really analyze why you didn't succeed." - Dean Karnazes www.sbgillinois.com
Regular industrial velcro, like the stuff from the hardware store, has a 120 degree operational temperature. There's 200 and 220 degree velcro but it's expensive by the foot. RTV will work and if you can let it cure overnight. Most car upholsterers have two sided tapes that will never melt in the heat.
Whether you think you can or you can't, you're probably right.
We have pool cars, which are frequently rotated between beats/officers to even out the mileage. Leave your gear in a car, even over night, and you're not seeing it again.
We've always used our personal chargers, even in the SL-20 days, and taken them with us at the end of shift. It's never been an issue to plug them in and let them charge between the seats.
Since I've gone to Li-ion battery lights, I've never had to charge a flashlight on duty. My light is a Fenix UC-50. The turbo mode is frankly too bright for regular use, so I keep it on the high level, just below turbo. It lasts 2 hours and 45 min on a charge, with full brightness the entire time. That's way more than a shift's worth of light, for me. If I was stuck somewhere where I needed more than 2:45 of light, I could step it down one more level for 8:30 of light. This level is brighter than the old SL-20. The new version of my light, the RC-20, provides 9:50 of light on medium level.
Another added benefit of Li-ion batteries is that they don't self discharge. So if you're coming back to work after a weekend, you light is still fully charged. I leave the charger in my POV, along with my duty gear, and charge my light when not working.
I have used this light for the last two years as well. Fantastic light. It's wonderful on traffic stops and running through the woods too. I use it to knock on doors occasionally too. The rubber door covering the charging port WILL come off if you use a belt pouch (I picked up a Bianchi). The USB charging is a game changer and it's a great sized light.
On traffic collisions or pre-established crime scenes (burglaries, death investigations, etc.) I bust out the issued Stinger DS LED to save the juice in the UC135.
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