Last summer we drove out that way, going through New Mexico before heading up to Durango and on to Mesa Verde.
Some of the cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde were closed due to damage, and others could only be visited by a ranger guided tour. If you want to do one of those tours make sure you make reservations ahead of time.
Outside of Durango, I think on the way to Silverton, is the James Ranch. They have a little food truck outside where they serve food made from ingredients grown/raised there and you can sit and eat on pick nick tables overlooking the farm. The burgers were pretty good and the ice cream and cheese from the little store was good too.
We were headed for Ouray out of Durango, but we encountered a heavy mix of rain, sleet and snow that started just before Silverton so we just stopped there. Ate at Golden Block Brewery and the pizza was pretty good but I don't remember the beers. We stopped and did a couple short hikes afterwards but found it pretty tough going at that altitude.