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Thread: Barrett 98B

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by LittleLebowski View Post
    I'd just get a traditional style .300 and have it trued and slicked up a bit.
    I already have what I think is the nicest light .300 WM hunting rifle in the world.
    Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.

  2. #12
    Member SecondsCount's Avatar
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    Feb 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by LittleLebowski View Post
    I'd just get a traditional style .300 and have it trued and slicked up a bit.
    That is what I was thinking but the reality is that GJM needs a Barrett 98B. Maybe not for hunting per say, but he needs one to reach out to 400 and beyond
    -Seconds Count. Misses Don't-

  3. #13
    Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by GJM View Post
    Good question, but I know it when I see it. I feel 0-300 is my sweet spot for trad bolt hunting rifles, but I go to 400 under special circumstances. Last year, I had to shoot further when I harvested my elk. Would like something that made 400-500 yards feel like 300 in a trad bolt.

    It is ironic, that currently a semi-auto .308 weighs considerably less than a bolt in a chassis.

    I think a substantial part of what I emphasized in bold is a matter of making sure the stock fits you extremely well for field shooting, minimizing recoil through mechanical means (to allow you to concentrate on the fundamentals) and the right optic. I realize that probably sounds obvious, but sometimes the forest gets overlooked for the trees.

    A McMillan Sako Hunter pattern stock works for me (and apparently many others due to its popularity). It has both a high cheek piece and a slight palm swell, which aid in getting a natural, repeatable shooting position.






    The T3 .300WM pictured above was set up for longer range shots on big game in less than ideal conditions. It is not as fun to pack as my favorite little .308 carbine, but it will get the job done at extended ranges, and it beats the heck out of carrying a 15.5# chassis rifle.

    Previously I had set my steel IPSC steel plate at 450 to confirm dope, and the data was on, so I found a spot on a rock face and sent 3 quick shots.

    Bearing in mind that I only shot one group, and that really (statistically speaking) doesn't mean too much, but the 3 rounds dropped into about 2&3/4"s at just past 600 yards. That is under .5 MOA for a hunting bullet. However, all the shots on paper averaged out to a more realistic 3/4 MOA.






    For me, I will take 3/4 MOA from a magnum chambered, sub 10# hunting rifle any day.

    For what you seek, with a max range of 500 yards, under ideal conditions, I don't think you could go wrong with a T3 mag, dropped into a McMillan, with a muzzle brake. No, it is not a high end custom rifle, with all the bells and whistles, but it will fill the freezer.

  5. #15
    If I had the money, I'd just throw money @Hansohn Brothers and get The Fix: http://liveqordie.com/product/rifles-by-q/the-fix-by-q/
    #RESIST

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Lost River View Post
    I think a substantial part of what I emphasized in bold is a matter of making sure the stock fits you extremely well for field shooting, minimizing recoil through mechanical means (to allow you to concentrate on the fundamentals) and the right optic. I realize that probably sounds obvious, but sometimes the forest gets overlooked for the trees.

    A McMillan Sako Hunter pattern stock works for me (and apparently many others due to its popularity). It has both a high cheek piece and a slight palm swell, which aid in getting a natural, repeatable shooting position.






    The T3 .300WM pictured above was set up for longer range shots on big game in less than ideal conditions. It is not as fun to pack as my favorite little .308 carbine, but it will get the job done at extended ranges, and it beats the heck out of carrying a 15.5# chassis rifle.

    Previously I had set my steel IPSC steel plate at 450 to confirm dope, and the data was on, so I found a spot on a rock face and sent 3 quick shots.

    Bearing in mind that I only shot one group, and that really (statistically speaking) doesn't mean too much, but the 3 rounds dropped into about 2&3/4"s at just past 600 yards. That is under .5 MOA for a hunting bullet. However, all the shots on paper averaged out to a more realistic 3/4 MOA.






    For me, I will take 3/4 MOA from a magnum chambered, sub 10# hunting rifle any day.

    For what you seek, with a max range of 500 yards, under ideal conditions, I don't think you could go wrong with a T3 mag, dropped into a McMillan, with a muzzle brake. No, it is not a high end custom rifle, with all the bells and whistles, but it will fill the freezer.
    What muzzle brake, what scope, and is the barreled action drop in or do you bed it?
    Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.

  7. #17
    Here is a very nice used alternative to the 98B. In 300WM.

    http://www.eurooptic.com/Sako-TRG-42-Kit.aspx

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by GJM View Post
    What muzzle brake, what scope, and is the barreled action drop in or do you bed it?
    I did not bed this rifle, or my .308.

    That said, one thing I have noticed is that McMillans can be "hit and miss" as far as if the stocks will be truly drop in. I have done a very slight amount of sanding on mine in the barrel channel area to make sure they were truly free float. Plus in the case of my .308 I went to Tacoma Screw and purchased some high grade screws, cut them to length, applied lock-tight and torqued to a consistent inch-pound setting.

    The brake is a Harrells brake BTW. They are quite effective. They are not fancy in the slightest bit, and have some sharp edges that could be knocked off, but they work well and are inexpensive. I don't normally care as much about the inexpensive part, when it comes to setting up firearms (within reason), but in this case, you get a very good product at a great price.

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