Beretta PX4 Storm - Underrated is an Understatement!

[Ben_G]

So has anyone else messed around with the Springer Precision basepads and magwells yet? Mine was a bit of a tight fit, but it's NOT moving now that it's on, and I'm one step closer to my personal build of a ridiculous PX4 racegun; it will officially be the oddest gun at local matches and if this goes right, possibly the first PX4 run in Open division.

[gato naranja]

So has anyone else messed around with the Springer Precision basepads and magwells yet? Mine was a bit of a tight fit, but it's NOT moving now that it's on, and I'm one step closer to my personal build of a ridiculous PX4 racegun; it will officially be the oddest gun at local matches and if this goes right, possibly the first PX4 run in Open division.

If it looks odder than some of the 92-platform ones, you will have accomplished quite a task.

[No.6]

Nope. Happy enough with one ordinary 15-round mag and two equipped with the alumin(i)um extensions https://www.beretta.com/en-us/produc...tension-E02574 for carrying capacity of one box.

[Dave Williams]

So has anyone else messed around with the Springer Precision basepads and magwells yet? Mine was a bit of a tight fit, but it's NOT moving now that it's on, and I'm one step closer to my personal build of a ridiculous PX4 racegun; it will officially be the oddest gun at local matches and if this goes right, possibly the first PX4 run in Open division.

Can you post a pic when it’s set up? Thanks!

[dfeder530]

Hello, looking for some help here because I am completely stumped. To preface, I'm not new to Berettas or other DA/SA guns. I've swapped trigger components on 92s before and the CZ decocker sear cages so I'm not totally new to how some of these parts work together, but not as familiar with the PX4 components. The frame and parts are also clean, so dirt and debris isn't a cause.

Anyway, I have a used PX4 compact that I'm having a trigger bar tension issue with. The trigger pull in DA/SA work just fine but it appears that when I try to thumb down the hammer the trigger bar doesn't have enough upward tension to engage the sear or the firing pin block. It's essentially a dead trigger. The procedure for my issue is below.

I pull and hold back the hammer. I hold the trigger down and release the hammer it stays fully cocked. When I release the trigger I can hear the disconnector click. When I reattempt thumbing down the hammer it then engages the sear and firing pin block and allows me to drop the hammer like any other hammer fired gun.

I've noticed that when fully cocked, I can pull the trigger roughly 1/8 inch rearwards and it stays. When I go to thumb down the hammer from that new trigger position the hammer can be thumbed down like normal. With the slide off it's very clear that the trigger bar seems to be stuck or catching in a position lower than it should be and that 1/8 inch rearward trigger movement pops the trigger bar high enough to engage the sear and firing pin block lifter.

I attached a few videos below that clearly show the issue and I'm very eager to hear if anyone can help remedy this problem I'm having.

If anyone can perhaps tag @PX4StormTracker for insight I'd appreciate it since I don't know how to do it.

[Duelist]

Hello, looking for some help here because I am completely stumped. To preface, I'm not new to Berettas or other DA/SA guns. I've swapped trigger components on 92s before and the CZ decocker sear cages so I'm not totally new to how some of these parts work together, but not as familiar with the PX4 components. The frame and parts are also clean, so dirt and debris isn't a cause.

Anyway, I have a used PX4 compact that I'm having a trigger bar tension issue with. The trigger pull in DA/SA work just fine but it appears that when I try to thumb down the hammer the trigger bar doesn't have enough upward tension to engage the sear or the firing pin block. It's essentially a dead trigger. The procedure for my issue is below.

I pull and hold back the hammer. I hold the trigger down and release the hammer it stays fully cocked. When I release the trigger I can hear the disconnector click. When I reattempt thumbing down the hammer it then engages the sear and firing pin block and allows me to drop the hammer like any other hammer fired gun.

I've noticed that when fully cocked, I can pull the trigger roughly 1/8 inch rearwards and it stays. When I go to thumb down the hammer from that new trigger position the hammer can be thumbed down like normal. With the slide off it's very clear that the trigger bar seems to be stuck or catching in a position lower than it should be and that 1/8 inch rearward trigger movement pops the trigger bar high enough to engage the sear and firing pin block lifter.

I attached a few videos below that clearly show the issue and I'm very eager to hear if anyone can help remedy this problem I'm having.

If anyone can perhaps tag @PX4StormTracker for insight I'd appreciate it since I don't know how to do it.

Why are you doing that? Thumbing down the hammer is not how the gun is designed. Does your decocker not work? If it works, stop thumbing down the hammer - it’s more dangerous, which is why the gun was designed with a decocker so you never have to do that. Ever.

[dfeder530]

Yes of course I know you're not supposed to thumb down a hammer on live rounds. That's not the point of the post. The point of the post is that I've never run into a single hammer fired pistol that can not be thumbed down, including 2 PX4s I've owned in the past. Clearly there's an issue with the internals of the firearm causing it to not function correctly and I'm here looking for help to understand how I can fix it before it is otherwise offloaded.

[Bucky]

Yes of course I know you're not supposed to thumb down a hammer on live rounds. That's not the point of the post. The point of the post is that I've never run into a single hammer fired pistol that can not be thumbed down, including 2 PX4s I've owned in the past. Clearly there's an issue with the internals of the firearm causing it to not function correctly and I'm here looking for help to understand how I can fix it before it is otherwise offloaded.

[dfeder530]

Yeah thanks for the help, I’m done here.

[PX4 Storm Tracker]

Hello, looking for some help here because I am completely stumped. To preface, I'm not new to Berettas or other DA/SA guns. I've swapped trigger components on 92s before and the CZ decocker sear cages so I'm not totally new to how some of these parts work together, but not as familiar with the PX4 components. The frame and parts are also clean, so dirt and debris isn't a cause.

Anyway, I have a used PX4 compact that I'm having a trigger bar tension issue with. The trigger pull in DA/SA work just fine but it appears that when I try to thumb down the hammer the trigger bar doesn't have enough upward tension to engage the sear or the firing pin block. It's essentially a dead trigger. The procedure for my issue is below.

I pull and hold back the hammer. I hold the trigger down and release the hammer it stays fully cocked. When I release the trigger I can hear the disconnector click. When I reattempt thumbing down the hammer it then engages the sear and firing pin block and allows me to drop the hammer like any other hammer fired gun.

I've noticed that when fully cocked, I can pull the trigger roughly 1/8 inch rearwards and it stays. When I go to thumb down the hammer from that new trigger position the hammer can be thumbed down like normal. With the slide off it's very clear that the trigger bar seems to be stuck or catching in a position lower than it should be and that 1/8 inch rearward trigger movement pops the trigger bar high enough to engage the sear and firing pin block lifter.

I attached a few videos below that clearly show the issue and I'm very eager to hear if anyone can help remedy this problem I'm having.

If anyone can perhaps tag @PX4StormTracker for insight I'd appreciate it since I don't know how

Sorry that it took me a while to notice this post. Here are a few observations, as well as things you can check.

Firstly, if you want to drop the cocked hammer with your thumb by use of the trigger to release it, it works a lot better if you don't pull the hammer back first. Instead, have your thumb on the hammer spur and just pull the trigger. Use your thumb to guide it forward slowly. This will not cause the trigger bar to attempt to manipulate in a position that is normally not a firing position.
The hammer all the way back to the frame is a recoil position that is temporary and then it falls forward a little bit onto the sear.

Next, I would look to see that the hammer pin spring (that loop looking spring that you can see if you look behind the trigger bar) is not dragging on the trigger bar because of being slightly out of place or too low.

Then I would look to make sure that the trigger bar spring is centered underneath the trigger bar and not dragging against the frame. Also, putting a little bit of oil on a piece of paper and sliding it between the trigger bar and the frame to lubricate in there might help if it is a minor sticking point.

It would also be advantageous to check the trigger return spring by holding the trigger bar down and seeing if the trigger moves forward freely back and forth.

This would be a good starting point. I have found that the hammer pin spring is often the culprit in this minute drag on the trigger bar.

As an additional note, the only other time that I have seen a trigger bar hesitation as displayed in your videos, is when the firing pin block plunger lever lower leg has been bent too high.