9mm Reload Data

[Matt O]

I'd use the 4th station for a light roll crimp. You'll need to crimp anyway after belling the case at the powder drop, and I prefer to seat and crimp in separate stations if you can (which the 550 can be set up for).


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To be clear on wording, he needs to use a taper crimp die, not a roll crimp die, the latter being for revolvers which don't headspace off the case mouth. But I completely that seating and crimping in separate stations is the way to go.

[Mitch]

To be clear on wording, he needs to use a taper crimp die, not a roll crimp die, the latter being for revolvers which don't headspace off the case mouth. But I completely that seating and crimping in separate stations is the way to go.

Thanks for pointing that out, edited to correct. Not sure why I had roll crimping on my mind? Brain fart I guess.


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[richiecotite]

Right now I'm shooting 147 gr sns casting coated, NLG flat points in mixed brass over 4.0-4.1 gr of WSF

Recoil is light, and I chrono'd them running right around 940 fps out of the storm lake 9mm conversion barrel I have in my m&p 40


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[NickDrak]

147 gr X-treme bullets plated RN
4.2 gr CFe Pistol powder
Winchester small pistol primers
Avg. 952 fps
COAL: 1.125-1.130
Light taper crimp


147 gr SNS Casting RN
4.0 gr CFe Pistol powder
Winchester small pistol primers
Avg. 942 fps
COAL: 1.125-1.130
Light taper crimp
Both loaded on my Dillon XL650

[LittleLebowski]

You just need to take the bell out of the brass. A good overall width to shoot for is the width of the brass case walls at the mouth plus the width of the bullet. The chamber of the pistol you're reloading for will also play a factor as some are cut more generously than others. Most of my loads are set right around .378 - .380.

Out of sixty rounds loaded, I'm at .373-.375. I've chambered and fired a few but don't have a chronograph yet. At least they function test in my Glocks.

[JAD]

Out of sixty rounds loaded, I'm at .373-.375. I've chambered and fired a few but don't have a chronograph yet. At least they function test in my Glocks.

a) It's hard to measure without an optical comparator. Shout out to my QA geek homies. If you're doing it with hawksbill calipers, be sure to use the thin edge at the tip, and try to get the calipers as level as you can, and measure at the very end of the case. It's a taper.
b) That's a little crimped. That's not necessarily a problem and I get a similar depth on FMJs and am happy with it. With plated bullets, you might see some deformation which detracts from accuracy. If you have an inertial bullet puller, pull one of the critters you measured at 0.373" and see if you're creating a cannelure. If so, back the last die off an eighth of a turn and repeat.

[LittleLebowski]

a) It's hard to measure without an optical comparator. Shout out to my QA geek homies. If you're doing it with hawksbill calipers, be sure to use the thin edge at the tip, and try to get the calipers as level as you can, and measure at the very end of the case. It's a taper.
b) That's a little crimped. That's not necessarily a problem and I get a similar depth on FMJs and am happy with it. With plated bullets, you might see some deformation which detracts from accuracy. If you have an inertial bullet puller, pull one of the critters you measured at 0.373" and see if you're creating a cannelure. If so, back the last die off an eighth of a turn and repeat.

Copy, I think I'll just back it off a touch and load up a few more.