I went through the process of shaving down the FSB on my upper, however the taper pins really do not want to go in further, based on the pictures how ducked am I or is it fine? (excuse the terrible home gunsmithing fsb chop )
I went through the process of shaving down the FSB on my upper, however the taper pins really do not want to go in further, based on the pictures how ducked am I or is it fine? (excuse the terrible home gunsmithing fsb chop )
I think you need to drive those in some more.
BIG hammers rule.
and an armourer's block and a big punch and a solid (concrete) base to set it all on.
An arbor press would do it pretty easy, I'd guess.
Make sure it isn't bouncing when you hit it. The solid base (concrete) suggestion above is the gospel.
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I whack the shit out of it with a 3# hammer using the correct concave tipped punch and call it g2g. Works fine.
Last edited by Unobtanium; 02-22-2017 at 03:27 AM.
I agree with the others. Those pins need to go in the rest of the way. It looks like there was some damage to them during removal. Using the right punch matters. So does making the initial blows to remove them hard and sharp using a solid (think anvil or concrete) base. That way, the heads of the pins don't get peened. If you don't have a concave tip punch to start them, use a 1/4 inch punch. It won't skid off of the pin like a smaller punch will. Once the pin begins to move, use the correct size punch (1/8) to finish driving it out.
Funny thing about that punch: I do some work for a local shop, and often am the call of last resort when their other guy can't get it. I broke the edges off my Starret and contacted them for a replacement under warranty. The guy at Starret did replace it, but told me that punch should only be used as a nail set into wood and that it was not rated for metal. I suggested he give Brownells a call since they're the ones who market it as being for taper pins.
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