Well we have a pretty damn abstract firearms policy (like most of our policies) that I would characterize as "Just enough rope..." or "It Depends...", but this would be the insurmountable roadblock for me. For a gaming gun though, I could be interested if there was an advantage above and beyond.Originally Posted by Duces Tecum
That is interesting, I appreciate the info/explanation. I will have to pay attention for it. Perhaps my bill drill times will go down.
While the trigger return spring does allow you to relax your trigger finger to reset, I would not count on that under stress nor would I recommend training to reset the trigger "just enough." For success on a glock trigger, you want to press through in one continuous motion with the shot difficulty determining the "speed" of your trigger press. Being a two stage trigger, a common error I see from shooters of all experience levels is they try to take the slack out and stop their trigger finger motion to stage the trigger at the wall right before it breaks or reset only to that point.
This is good advice.
As far as trigger jobs, .25 or higher, I recommend just shooting the gun. You'll be better off in the long run, both for your competency and your dept. policy.
How do you do that? Every factory Glock I've tried won't let the trigger reset, or even move forward, until the slide has returned to battery. When I try to reset a Glock trigger during recoil, my finger loses the trigger
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Being someone who spent almost $500 having GrayGuns work over an HK trigger, I don't think there's any benefit in doing the $.25 trigger job. There was no quantifiable increase in my performance, whether in accuracy, speed, or any combination thereof. I agree with SLG, just shoot it. On top of the transition, go through HREFC or make an effort of getting to Pro-Fire and it'll be broken in, I bet.
FWIW, I remember the policy specifically prohibiting any modifications to the FCG. That would include both the Gadget and $.25 job. Sad panda.
"Are you ready? Okay. Let's roll."- Last words of Todd Beamer
But then I will have to actually spend some time shooting instead of talking about guns on the internet
I have a gun with the SIG factor action job, and it is pretty nice, but at this point my duty gun has enough rounds through it that I can't tell the difference between the two from a smoothness perspective.
What do you mean by a pro-fire. I go to many pro-fires (or re-qual if the profire slots are all full). If you go to certain facilities for requal, they will perform a full battery of checks on your pistol. Apparently they have had some pretty special modifications roll through the door (like kitchen table adjustable over-travel screw stops and such like that). It is also one of the ways they are trying to get a hold of the remaining 228's.
I don't remember the exact language from the policy, but I agree that either way the gadget and a polish are not in the cards. I believe there was something to do with minimum weights for triggers, but that all work must be completed by an agency/factory trained armorer. It is loose enough that in years past folks were able to get SRTs refitted into guns, but tight enough that you can't do it yourself.
I used to perform the polish on every Glock I acquired, as a matter of SOP. Over the last two years, I've found that I prefer the "deliberateness" of the trigger in stock form, so my vote would be to just shoot it to break it in. I'm also with you that I would NOT polish the internals of an issued Glock - especially since Glock specifically states the practice can lead to failures.
With regard to polishing parts... when I get a new Glock I will spend a couple hours a night for a week cycling the trigger. Not dry fire - that's a separate activity. No sight picture or perfect grip... just sitting on the couch watching a show or something and putting normal wear on the parts.
I've carried DA or DAO guns of one type or another for nearly 20 years before going to a personally owned Glock 17 9mm in 2013. I've gone gone from Ruger GP-100, to SIG P220 to Beretta 96D to HK USPC LEM and finally 5 years with a P229R DAK before going to the Glock.
I have stock trigger parts in all my Glocks - no polish. Etc. dry fire or if you get a bad one try swapping stock parts for a more favorable tolerance stack. Glock parts are cheap.
I was always taught to thumb check the hammer on re-holstering. Barring a gadget, one must simply be more aware of the risk when selecting holsters and re-holstering. I don't carry AIWB and personally would not want to do so with a striker fired pistol without a manual safety or a gadget. Others feel differently. The "no look" re-holstering prevelant in LE is primarily applicable to uniformed officers wearing duty rigs. I was trained this way but have come to believe it is a poor idea for plainclothes applications, partivularly with striker fired pistols.
IME the most unique thing about the Glock is the trigger, particularly the shape and finding how your finger needs to interface with it to ensure you pull straight to the rear and finish flat. This will vary from person to person. You may find you need more or less trigger finger than with more conventional designs.
In terms of the index and particularly the trigger, I find I need to shoot the Glock like a Glock rather than the way I shoot everything else. If I don't I find myself pushing shots high or left at speed.
I found Bruce Gray's Bump Drill particularly useful for learning the Glock trigger.
Last edited by HCM; 02-20-2017 at 01:54 AM.
Good question, Mist Wolf. I think for me the slide's forward motion is complete as the front sight is dropping back into the rear sight allowing the trigger to reset as it settles in to the notch.
Last edited by Jason M; 02-20-2017 at 06:10 AM.
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