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Thread: Glock finger groove removal

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Michigan

    Glock finger groove removal

    Hey all, I'm sure this has been discussed adnausem, but I have a couple of questions for the do it yourselfers in here. I have three Gen 4 G23's in various colors. One is at Cold Bore getting a pro treatment, one is gonna be left stock, and the third is currently my DIY project. I got some (surprisingly) good results doing a double undercut on the trigger guard with a Dremel, and decided to remove the finger grooves as well. Everything is looking good, but when I started moving to finer and finer sandpaper to erase the scuffing, it became apparent that the front strap is not perfectly flat. You can still see two (albeit small) bumps where the finger grooves once were and I'm having a hell of a time with it. The gap between the trigger guard and the lip at the bottom is too small for me to get a typical sanding block in there, and I don't want to keep "trying" to smooth is out because eventually I'm going to run out of material. Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Crash41984 View Post
    Hey all, I'm sure this has been discussed adnausem, but I have a couple of questions for the do it yourselfers in here. I have three Gen 4 G23's in various colors. One is at Cold Bore getting a pro treatment, one is gonna be left stock, and the third is currently my DIY project. I got some (surprisingly) good results doing a double undercut on the trigger guard with a Dremel, and decided to remove the finger grooves as well. Everything is looking good, but when I started moving to finer and finer sandpaper to erase the scuffing, it became apparent that the front strap is not perfectly flat. You can still see two (albeit small) bumps where the finger grooves once were and I'm having a hell of a time with it. The gap between the trigger guard and the lip at the bottom is too small for me to get a typical sanding block in there, and I don't want to keep "trying" to smooth is out because eventually I'm going to run out of material. Any suggestions?
    Aren't you going to stipple it?

    If yes, you'll never even notice those bumps.

    If no, what the fuck are you doing?

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016


    this is a homebrew job - not pretty but fully functional.

    in my limited experience, there is enough meat under the finger humps that you will be ok hitting those areas with a dremel sanding drum to get them near perfectly flat.

    use a pencil or something to shade the whole area and you can better tell where you are removing material.

  4. #4
    Site Supporter Irelander's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Venango County, PA
    You could cut a small piece of wood and wrap it with sand paper. The flat surface of the wood should make sure you take the tops of those bumps off.
    Jesus paid a debt he did not owe,
    Because I owed a debt I could not pay.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Irelander View Post
    You could cut a small piece of wood and wrap it with sand paper. The flat surface of the wood should make sure you take the tops of those bumps off.
    That's how I did it.

  6. #6
    I like the grooves.
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  7. #7
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Midwest
    Apprentice way- Put frame between to paperback books in a vise. Use multiple strips of increasing grits of sandpaper and "shoeshine stroke" the finger groves off. Go slow and tape off the rest of the grip with some blue painter's tape.

    Journeyman way- Vise/tape up frame as described above and remove 75% of the grooves with a Dremel tool. GO SLOW. Your failure to GO SLOW will result in you removing material from areas other than the finger grooves. Your abysmal failure to GO SLOW will result in your Dremel, via abrasion, heat or both, thinning or actually putting a hole in the frame. Finish up with the sandpaper strips.

    Master way- See above, get 95-99% off with a Dremel, shoeshine stoke with sandpaper strips and/or a disposable fingernail file and/or a sanding sponge. Dremel, very lightly with a polishing wheel to get a factory like appearance if you are not going stipple. If you are going to stipple, I would stop in the 95 to 99% range, stipple and drive on.

    YMMV Greatly. If you have ANY doubts at all re your Dremel skills, just go manual and spend the extra 15-20 minutes max.



    See my response with photos at post # 6.
    https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....tippling-Gurus

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Michigan
    Thanks for the tips guys. I finally did manage to get that sucker sanded flat. To clarify, yes, I fully intend to stipple everything once I get my wood burner in the mail and practice on some spare backstraps. I was just trying to do all the prep work I could because I've never done any frame mods like this before. Suprisingly, I had never used a dremel before and my double undercut wound up looking amazing. I'm trying to keep the streak alive.

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