Revolver grip technique

[jetfire]

#dicksoutforbolke


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[Dagga Boy]

#dicksoutforbolke

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I will admit to having to use google to figure that out, but it is funny.

[jetfire]

Glorious


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[Totem Polar]

#dicksoutforbolke

[1986s4]

I learned to shoot pistols with a Smith M18 .22 at age 19 that I still have. My father and I [with my money] bought it new in 1980. I really don't remember how I held it then but I did achieve some skill with it after many bricks of .22 LR. As far as my trigger finger goes, I have found the best results using the tip of my finger and going for a straight back consistent pull, no staging. I only use SA when sighting in.
After learning to shoot with revolvers I moved on to semi-autos for many years and rarely touched my revolvers, in fact I foolishly sold all but the M18. But as I reached middle age I found myself returning to the DA revolver, maybe it's for nostalgia or it's because a good DA revo shoots as fast as my old eyes can see...?

[Chuck Whitlock]

I like the analogy, and your overall analysis, very much. Thanks for chiming in thus far Darryl. I have one related question for you specifically, and then a separate one for both you, and the entire forum: #1) how has your revolver grip/technique changed over the decades (if at all) as TTPs around handgun usage have evolved in general?

#2) in the Jerry vid, he is pretty quick to dismiss the "power crease" (distal phalangeal joint as contact point with the trigger) in favor of less trigger on the gun, and what to me sounds like an almost 1911 placement of the pad on the trigger face. How many here shoot wheelies this way? I'll admit to being a power crease guy, having shot LFI-1 with an NY-1 K-frame while still a college student, back when that's how it was done and I was wet behind the ears. I've been experimenting with a more "semi-auto" placement of late, since I've been drilling to switch over to my left eye, etc. anyways. Thoughts?

I use a weaver-ish stance/grip with my thumbs locked down on each other. I aim to get the crease of the distal joint on the trigger. For J's\SP101's I haven't gotten comfortable with the thumb over reinforced grip and shoot them the same as I do bigger revolvers.

Older pic from HiTS Close Quarters Pistol.

http://instagram.com/p/-ANCREo2Lt/

My grip is like Hizzie's. I came up using a Weaver-ish thumbs-down grip. I had FLETC instructors transition me to thumbs-forward. While I did OK, I never felt like I had consistency. I have since gone back to the thumbs down grip for all handguns. It just seems more consistent.

[OlongJohnson]

Almost a year... reviving this thread.

With @RexG 's repeated laments about having screwed up his right hand shooting magnums with a poor grip, I figure I should check and get some advice.

Pics are my GP100 Match Champion. I have the Hogue NFG wraparound grip on it. I've shaved the speed loader relief to thin it a bit for more clearance, flattened out the hump in the middle of the back strap to make it straighter, and very slightly reduced the thickness around the sides at the very top where the thumb/web/index finger wrap it. All significant improvements, but changes that most people wouldn't notice unless they had the stock grip to compare to.

I've decided that Jerry Miculek, in spite of his obvious grip strength and suggestions that he has large hands, has stubby thumbs. I have fairly large hands with long fingers. I run into the problem of what to do with my thumbs. I had gotten into a bit of a thumbs-forward habit, then tried a .357 Magnum out of a 640-1. No broken skin, but black soot embedded in micro-tears in the surface of the skin on my thumb, and it stung a bit. So I'm working at building strong habits to keep my thumbs bent and well rearward. When adding my support hand, I currently am wrapping the support thumb over the top of the first segment of the primary hand thumb, while keeping them both generally behind the blast shield.

My trigger finger is indexed on the frame in the photos, but this grip puts the distal interphalangeal joint on the trigger face. That's with the full thickness wraparound on the Hogues. Trying to use the pad requires my finger to be pulled outward awkwardly, and screws up the balance of forces in the grip.

Final note on the photos, the camera was very close and shot with a wide angle, so parts of the image shrink disproportionately as you get farther from the center of the image. My hands are big, but at least a couple percent smaller than they look in these photos, proportional to the GP.

Just wrapped up a dry fire session (snap caps in the cylinder), so the grip is as close to a shooting grip as I'm going to get without live fire. Was using my support hand for the camera, so it's not there, but that's not my concern. Just looking for any advice from the pros in the room for correction, or telling me it looks OK.

[Totem Polar]

Thanks for reviving this thread, OJ. I'm *still* wrestling with my revolver grip(s) and I've been at wheelies since... well, it's been a long time. I have had the same issues with unlocked thumbs--or thumbs forward--as you, with anything even resembling a hotter load, and it's a conundrum. If concealment is off the table, no problem: massive grips, and adjust the gun to fit your hands. This is one of the upsides of revolvers. Of course, adjusting a j-frame to my professional string player hands means that the gun quickly exceeds a stock model 10/12/64 snub's size envelope, so I'm back to trying to find a good place to put my thumbs. I'm just about convinced that I can't have a locked grip on a J-frame 642 without compromising the whole reason I own and practice with one in the first place. JMO.

As to the distal inter-phalangeal joint ("power crease") I am firmly there with j-frames, although I did experiment with more of a 1911 pad placement on my action-tuned K-frames as a result of this thread, with generally good results. I've come to the conclusion that pad v crease on bigger wheelies is a "Plessy v Ferguson" technique question for me: "separate, but equal..."

[OlongJohnson]

Have you tried the Hogue Centennial grip on your J's? It's big for a J, but still smaller than most K's. The back strap wraparound goes all the way up on the Centennial, enabling a high grip. The top of a Centennial back strap is approximately the same height in relation to the trigger as the top of a K-frame back strap. The Hogue is the only off-the-shelf grip I am aware of that does that for J's. It's surprising there aren't more grip makers willing to say, "Nevermind" to the exposed hammers and optimize something for the Centennials.

[Totem Polar]

Have you tried the Hogue Centennial grip on your J's? It's big for a J, but still smaller than most K's. The back strap wraparound goes all the way up on the Centennial, enabling a high grip. The top of a Centennial back strap is approximately the same height in relation to the trigger as the top of a K-frame back strap. The Hogue is the only off-the-shelf grip I am aware of that does that for J's. It's surprising there aren't more grip makers willing to say, "Nevermind" to the exposed hammers and optimize something for the Centennials.

I haven't tried that hogue yet, since I just became aware of it through the recent spate of J-frame posts. It does look intriguing...