I messaged a buddy in the neighborhood, he went and looked at them, he said all the ones he saw in the case were pretty hammered.Originally Posted by David S.
I messaged a buddy in the neighborhood, he went and looked at them, he said all the ones he saw in the case were pretty hammered.
Don't forget the Model 15.
They are a gun that almost everyone shoots well.
Though for the OP's intended purpose, I would at Crimson Trace laser grips for the grand parents. They are very intuitive for those who don't have extensive handgun training.
Wow, thanks for checking on those Malamute, that was very kind of you.I messaged a buddy in the neighborhood, he went and looked at them, he said all the ones he saw in the case were pretty hammered.
Thank you all for your suggestions, I really appreciate it!
The current plan: Handle and dry fire revolvers ranging from the LCRx / 3" J frame / SP101 up to the K frame / GP101 variety. Based on that we can go shoot what feels right that I either already have, or can borrow or rent. Get laser grips installed on the new gun if it doesn't already have them.
If one of those solutions mention above doesn't work we step down to some type of 22 like the MP22 compact mentioned by Dr. House and others in the older thread. The ruger 10/22 is still an option if it comes to that, but I still have concerns about storage. Still leaning towards buying new, but will keep my options open.
A couple of last questions I'm wondering about:
Should I assume that any of the above mentioned revolvers would benefit from a good trigger job (assuming new)? If I'm sending it to a smith anyway, should I have him bob the hammer, so it is a true doa?
I was thinking .327 mag in a SP101, but notice that Glenn said that had more recoil than a .38 in another thread. Should I put that caliber out of my mind? I'm not worried about ammo cost or availability, as we'll just be shooting the proverbial one box, just recoil/blast.
One last bit of information regarding the thread drift earlier: 3M also makes some type of 'super caulk' to anchor the film to the window frame. The gap in the film at the edge window was discussed as a particular vulnerability in the older thread. I guess 3M recognized that and developed an adhesive to anchor it to the frame.
Details here: http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-u...2716669&rt=rud
and here: http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/5...n-adhesive.pdf
Thanks again!
If it were me, Id probably leave the trigger alone so long as they can actually pull it through OK. Same for the hammer, if they understand not to cock it, it probably wont be a problem, though if they get to where they cant trigger cock it, manually cocking the hammer may be the only way they can operate it later. Just some thoughts. I deal with single action revolvers regularly, so my perspective may not be translatable to other people and situations.
You can probably slick up the trigger action some just by dry cycling it for a while, either with snap caps or with holding the hammer with the off thumb so it doesnt drop home with full force.
Ok, makes sense, thanks.
Oh, and please say thanks to your friend who checked out those .38s - I really appreciate it.
We had a scared teenage stoner who I am guessing had exactly zero weapons experience use a 10/22 and a 25 round mag to defend himself (shooting from the hip, bad 80's action movie style) against a determined attacker with a knife--while it definitely wasn't an instant one-shot stop (according to kid's statement, the response to the first center-mass hit was "fuck you, pussy, you shot me!" and a similar response to the second center-mass hit), but when the threat kept advancing and the kid went cyclic, the threat went down and was most definitely DRT. I think the high capacity and non-existent recoil carried the day for this kid; if he had had a pistol, I'm not sure if he would have gotten enough good hits on target to put the threat down before he got cut.
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