"Shooting is 90% mental. The rest is in your head." -Nils
Not on a scandi knife. You want to maintain the bevel it came with which is essentially flat all the way to the edge.
Check the links I posted above regarding sharpening. You're essentially going to just lay the whole primary bevel flat to your stone or ceramic rod and hone or sharpen the edge as needed.
On a Sharpmaker, instead of holding the blade vertically and allowing the base to create a 15 or 20 degree angle, you're going to just lay the blade flat against the stone whether it's in the jig or in your hand.
Last edited by blues; 12-04-2016 at 09:07 AM.
There's nothing civil about this war.
The only exception to no secondary bevel on a scandi grind is if that is your only knife (even at the moment), and you need to do much (or really any, depending on your steel and hardness) work on hardwood. I have put a micro bevel on a few knives over the years and it really works well for hardwood. The scandi was really made for softer wood. If you do the micro bevel correctly, it is very easy to switch back to the true scandi when your needs change again.
Agree, SLG. I have one or two scandi grinds that either came with or that I applied a small secondary bevel to for woodwork or a task that would otherwise ding up a zero or full flat grind at the edge. For the most part, I think those Nordic knife makers knew their business. I have quite a few production and a few custom knives from Sweden, Finland and Norway. Love 'em. They remind me a lot of true Japanese tanto blades from prior centuries...not the common "tanto" that people have come to associate with the name.
There's nothing civil about this war.
You are all enablers.
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Bought two: One for HH6, and one for the family gift exchange. I suggested one in a pretty color for the women's gifts in the gift exchange, but she is convinced that her family would not be interested. I am not so sure, but they're her relatives...
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I picked up some as stocking stuffers. One for me too.