Truth. That's why the L-frame appeared.Originally Posted by lwt16
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Truth. That's why the L-frame appeared.
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I'm not gonna lie. I was a little lost on how to properly grip a revolver and shoot it DA. I kept wanting to pause throughout the trigger pull. With some work I may be able to get myself up to the level of basic marksmanship with a pistol lol.
On the note of the gun belt, I'll try and get pictures of it when I get back from school over Christmas break.
I wasn't even aware that I could fire 38 special through the gun. 357 magnum was a handful but still fun to shoot. From this point though I will probably shoot 38 special to keep the gun in good shape. I took a couple more pictures of markings on the gun. Can anyone explain what they represent?
Very nice revolver. i'm sure your grandfather appreciates the good home.
Other than a good cleaning, i would just leave it be. Each of those marks has a story with it, and there in lies the beauty of it.
Its very common to see CPD (Chicago) with wheelguns still. Bump into them at the airport all the time, same Downtown. Something about a revolver and Sillitoe Tartan just demands respect.
The numbers inside the frame are the serial number (with the 7Kxxxxx), which is also stamped on the bottom of the grip frame. Next is the model number, yours being a model 66 "no dash" (the dashes with following numbers are later changes after the basic model, such as model 66-1 etc). The number on the yoke (cylinder hinge/holder thing) is an assembly number of the yoke to the frame I believe.I'm not gonna lie. I was a little lost on how to properly grip a revolver and shoot it DA. I kept wanting to pause throughout the trigger pull. With some work I may be able to get myself up to the level of basic marksmanship with a pistol lol.
On the note of the gun belt, I'll try and get pictures of it when I get back from school over Christmas break.
I wasn't even aware that I could fire 38 special through the gun. 357 magnum was a handful but still fun to shoot. From this point though I will probably shoot 38 special to keep the gun in good shape. I took a couple more pictures of markings on the gun. Can anyone explain what they represent?
Last edited by Malamute; 11-28-2016 at 09:47 PM.
All correct, Malamute.
Bowman_15, treasure that puppy... not only because it was your grandfather's, but because it was manufactured back when S&W was still doing them right, and solid. The only real issue with the "no-dash" M-66 was the gas ring; getting it hot quickly with full-patch .357 rounds would cause the cylinder to start sticking badly. Not a problem with .38 ammunition. That was fixed on the 66-1, BTW. Yours is a later "no-dash", due to not having the original white stainless rear sight.
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I was thinking exactly the same thing.
That's a nice Smith in good condition, Bowman. You can reduce the 38 ring in the cylinders by using copper bullets. I eliminated the rings entirely by using light loads in 357 brass. I shot thousands of light 357 loads through a 686. Kept a progressive reloading press busy keeping the Smith and a couple of other pistols in ammo
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If it's stainless (I'm not up on the S&W numerology as to what the 66 model is specifically made of; I think it's stainless), an easy solution to eliminate powder residue is to wipe the affected areas with a Lead-Away cloth; you can also cut a piece into a patch and it'll remove any cylinder chamber residue. DO NOT use if on blued guns-it'll strip the blueing off most ricky-tick. I'm not sure about using it with nickle-plating, so best not use it on plated firearms until discussing with Kleen Bore, who produce 'em.
Cylinder chamber residue rings from shooting .38 Special cartridges in .357 chambered guns aren't difficult to remove; usually just hitting them with a bronze brush and a good chamber/bore cleaning solution normally will remove them, but you could also use a stainless steel Tornado brush, or wrap a segment of copper Chore Boy (a cobber Brillo-Pad like scrubbing pad) around your bronze brush. I've never had to do anything more aggressive to remove such cylinder chamber residue rings. A quick apres-cleaning check is simply to try to chamber some .357 cartridges-they should slide right in; if not, remove them and continue with a repeat of the cleaning process.
Best, Jon
Last edited by JonInWA; 11-30-2016 at 08:11 PM.
In my quest to make my own personal firearm museum of duty guns at my agency, I just picked up an identical revolver to this one a couple of months back. These were standard issue for us prior to ~1992 when we got the W. German P226s in 9mm.
I bought it off one of the reserve officers who still works here. He was the original buyer in 1978. He was/is a "qualify only" kind of guy so the round count is low. Fun gun to shoot, like a frikin laser beam.
Now I got to find an old timer gun guy who worked here before those were issued and figure out what I need to buy next...
There's also the Lewis Lead Remover: http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleanin...prod21587.aspx
I usually don't revive old threads, but I see this poster is from the Detroit area.
Here is a photo of my Michigan State Police issue revolver I purchased from the widow of our MSP range officer. When I was was with MSP, I never shot good enough to get one of these issued to me (had to stick with my heavy barrel model 10.)
Trooper Joe
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