Zeroing Service Pistols

[Doc_Glock]

I have been swapping sights on some pistols, primarily a FNS-9 and a bevy of Glocks. Mostly to try different sight configurations and see what I prefer. In the process, I have realized I don't know what I don't know about zeroing a pistol. I did a search and could not find these questions answered going through ten pages of results.

Would anyone care to share their general process for zeroing a new to them pistol?
Any particular course of fire?
Two hand one hand, off hand?
How many rounds and at what distance?
What is acceptable group size at the selected distance to be even considered for zeroing the gun?

One observation I will add from my time fooling around with it thus far: the pistol should probably be zeroed offhand standing because I noticed a distinct difference in grouping off hand versus sand bagged with my sand bagged groups pulling more to the left than offhand for some reason (right handed shooter.)

Thanks in advance.

[ASH556]

There are more user interface variables in zeroing a pistol than a rifle, so I feel it's far less scientific. Personally, I feel that my skill level is now to a point where I'm comfortable shooting a pistol two-hand freestlye at 25yds and evaluating both for POI and accuracy. Recently I swapped a G17 to Dawsons and had to make use of their Perfect Impact Guarantee. This procedure worked well enough for me through that process. I find that shooting off rest/bags with a pistol creates more problems than it solves. If you're not to a point where you can keep 10 rounds on a 3x5 card at your chosen zero distance, have someone more skilled sight it in for you. Then, tweak as needed based on your interface.

Also, as sort of a sub-point: too many folks are too wrapped up in the rear sight being centered in the slide. Yes, there are absolutely a lot of cases where the shooter is pushing or pulling the gun and they should improve their technique before pushing the rear sight halfway off the slide. However, if you can keep all your shots on a 3x5 at 25yds and the sight needs to move to center the group, then move it.




With the replacement (taller) front sight:

[PNWTO]

So my basic "handshake" process for new Glocks is:

* New sights, I have some Heinies but now I just use the Defoor set.

* 10-20 rounds at anywhere from 3-10 yards, just to see what's up with the trigger.

* 15yds, 10-20 verifying POA/POI and windage, adjustments as necessary.

* 25yds, 3 slow strings on 10 on a B-8, I know at my current skill level that I'm good for scoring 80ish on demand with a 9mm Glock after I've figured out where it is hitting.

I've never zeroed a handgun off a rest/bag/whatever.

There are many more knowledgeable people here but this is generally how I get to know a new piece. After this process then I'll begin shooting hard with a timer.

[45dotACP]

What ASH said...I typically shoot about 5 offhand groups at a B16. If the groups are in the black, I'm zeroed. If I see any bias to one side, I adjust.

That said...it seems to me like the difference between offhand and rested shooting is one of technique. There should not be a huge difference in impact just by bracing your wrists on some sandbags.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[JohnO]

I zero my pistols at multiple distances. The purpose being to understand exactly where my point of impact is at all distances. Typically I will zero at 3, 5, 7, 10, 15, 25 & 50 Yards. I prefer a sight configuration where the bullet impacts POA =POI (tip of front sight) so I put the tip of my front sight right on the X of a NRA B-8 Bull repair center and do a walk back.

Initially I will take a 8.5" x 11" sheet of white copy paper and bisect it vertically & horizontally with a thick black Sharpie using a straight edge. Now I have a nice center point to aim and telltale lines to use if initial adjustments need to be made in windage.

I shot this for a buddy at lunch time during a class. His gun was a M&P 45 with Apex trigger parts. I never shot a M&P before this and did a walk back 3, 5, 7 10, 15 & 25 yards. I would say the gun was good to go.



Mike Pannone has some valuable comments on sights, lighting and zeroing.

[okie john]

I have been swapping sights on some pistols, primarily a FNS-9 and a bevy of Glocks. Mostly to try different sight configurations and see what I prefer. In the process, I have realized I don't know what I don't know about zeroing a pistol. I did a search and could not find these questions answered going through ten pages of results.

Would anyone care to share their general process for zeroing a new to them pistol?
Any particular course of fire?
Two hand one hand, off hand?
How many rounds and at what distance?
What is acceptable group size at the selected distance to be even considered for zeroing the gun?

One observation I will add from my time fooling around with it thus far: the pistol should probably be zeroed offhand standing because I noticed a distinct difference in grouping off hand versus sand bagged with my sand bagged groups pulling more to the left than offhand for some reason (right handed shooter.)

Thanks in advance.

I shoot a few groups at 25 yards with the factory sights to see if the pistol is properly regulated. If it’s a Glock, this is a crapshoot. Then I check the pistol with different loads and find the one it prefers over most others. I’ll zero for that load.

I surveyed the SMEs on another forum several years ago, and all of them zero pistols dead-on at 25 yards, so I also zero for 25. I zero with both hands, shooting offhand. Once I get to where half of my shots are above the center of the target and half below, then I know I’m good for elevation. Same with windage.

At 25 yards, I’d like to see 4” groups. Smaller is better, but 4” is adequate.


Okie John

[Peally]

I've never felt accurate and not lazy enough to bother, personally. Long as I'm hitting heads on USPSA targets at 25 easily I'm happy.

[Al T.]

A quick mnemonic is "FORS". Front Opposite, Rear the Same. If your shots are grouping left, move the rear sight left. Impact's high, lower the front sight.

[Doc_Glock]

Thanks everyone, there is a lot of gold in this thread.

[spinmove_]

Personally when I'm changing sights and then zeroing, I'll use a laser boresighter first. I'll laser boresight to 25yds and adjust sights until they're as precise as I can eyeball it. I then run a Press Six drill at 15-21ft. Once that looks good, I'll confirm at 25yds. I find that if I monkey with precisely boresighting the sights initially, I have to make far fewer adjustments, if any, later for fine tuning.