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Thread: Best "FIX" to disable S&W OEM revolver lock?

  1. #11
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    Cave Creek, Az.
    And what would be the best way to knock out the lock without damaging the frame so the plug can be installed?

    Jim

  2. #12
    advanced hobbyist fatdog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Bellino View Post
    And what would be the best way to knock out the lock without damaging the frame so the plug can be installed?
    after you have removed internals including hammer, the flag can be removed easily, lift it out, and the lock is held in place by a tiny flat retaining plate that is the wishbone looking piece under spring tension (see the thing with the blue spring in original picture I posted), simply retract that and the lock falls out. You can install the plug and use this same retaining plate to hold it in place under spring tension, or use a tiny cotter pin that some of the plug makers ship with the plug to hold it in place and just dispense with the retainer plate and blue spring. I have done it both ways, both work.

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    Last edited by fatdog; 09-13-2016 at 02:53 PM.

  3. #13
    advanced hobbyist fatdog's Avatar
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    May 2016
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    One other thing I will observe about this particular lock system.

    I believe several people. all of whom I consider credible, have experienced the "locking up" malfunction during firing some models of such equipped S&W revolvers, wherefore it is the first thing to "get fixed" on any modern S&W revolver I ever own that has it.

    But after ditzing with this mechanism for a few years I am convinced it is not the locking cam getting "switched on" during firing that causes these incidents.

    The flag itself is under very weak spring tension that holds it down in the unlocked state and operating normally that cam on the back side of the lock when moved by the key pushes the cam position upward and hence pushes the flag up into the locked position where the finger engages the hammer notch. But as I said, that spring tension holding flag down in the unlocked position is quite weak.

    I am pretty sure that under recoil in certain angles and circumstances the flag overcomes that spring tension for an instant and engages the locking channel in the hammer as it passes when everything happens just right.

    All of which to say, if you just replace the lock itself with a plug and do not grind down the locking finger, or completely remove the locking flag, I don't think you have done a thing to mitigate the risk. Not until that locking finger on the flag is completely gone from the gun, one way or the other, have you mitigated the risk of this very flawed design.

  4. #14
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    Nov 2012
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    Cave Creek, Az.
    LSP972 says to be careful knocking out the circular locking mechanism that is press fit into the frame.....could someone please clarify this part of the operation for me before I perform major surgery on my 642.......FATDOG.....thxs for all the detailed explanation. I am anal about such things so this means a lot to me

    Jim

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Bellino View Post
    LSP972 says to be careful knocking out the circular locking mechanism that is press fit into the frame.....e
    That is because it is held in the "frame side" (as opposed to the "plate side") of the revolver frame, and if you just slam-punch it out, you can warp the frame... which never ends well.

    Just tap it out gently, using a small pin punch on the edges of the cylindrical mechanism. Of course, you want to have gutted the frame ahead of time and punch it from the OUTER frame side.

    Once that is done, The Plug will slip right in perfectly.

    ..

  6. #16
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    Cave Creek, Az.
    Quote Originally Posted by LSP972 View Post
    That is because it is held in the "frame side" (as opposed to the "plate side") of the revolver frame, and if you just slam-punch it out, you can warp the frame... which never ends well.

    Just tap it out gently, using a small pin punch on the edges of the cylindrical mechanism. Of course, you want to have gutted the frame ahead of time and punch it from the OUTER frame side.

    Once that is done, The Plug will slip right in perfectly.

    ..
    Thanks LSP972.....got all the info I need now. Only have to find a good reputable place to purchase the plug at.....anyone current on a source for the plug? What finish on the plug would best match the finish on my Al, frame 642?

    Jim

  7. #17
    advanced hobbyist fatdog's Avatar
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    May 2016
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    Central Alabama
    The last one I got was from Ed Jennings, sighttool@gmail.com

    It was acceptable, I would choose his stainless version for a 642, when last I purchased, his price was $35 shipped, had to send a check since he did not take paypal or credit cards. There may be other makers now.

  8. #18
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    Feb 2011
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    Albuquerque, NM
    I wonder if any of the current plug makers would be interested in a wholesale deal... I'd love to carry them.

  9. #19
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    Feb 2011
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    DFW, TX
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom_Jones View Post
    I wonder if any of the current plug makers would be interested in a wholesale deal... I'd love to carry them.
    I would love to buy one from you.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #20
    Site Supporter
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    Feb 2011
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    Albuquerque, NM
    I'll try to reach out to those guys and see if there is any interest.

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