Frame work to alleviate Glock knuckle

[BJJ]

I spent 2 days training with Tom Givens last weekend. I have a pretty wicked blister on the knuckle of my strong hand to show for it. I am interested in sending a Glock frame to a frame smith to have it altered so that I can do high round count training without getting a blister. I contacted Lane at Cold Bore Customs a few days ago but haven't gotten a response. I only want the minimal amount of work done necessary to alleviate Glock knuckle. Can anyone tell me if Lane is still in business? Isn't he on the forum? Or is there anyone else you can recommend? Lane looks like the best option from what I have seen but I am open to other options.

Thanks.

[JCS]

I've been trying to get up the nerve to do it on mine. At this point I've developed a large callous.


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[blues]

This video makes the fix look pretty painless.

[BobLoblaw]

I do it myself with patience and high grad sandpaper but I take off just enough to round the corners and smooth the texture out. However, if that tape clown can do it with a Dremel and not screw it up, you could do it while sporting a Chinese finger trap.

[OlongJohnson]

I actually had nerve damage to the knuckle after one or two range sessions with mine, due to where my particular hand geometry puts the knuckle.

It's pretty easy to make adjustments. I just took a pair of calipers set to 4mm, or ~0.16 inch, and set them so one side was tangent to the curve inside the TG and the other was tangent to the top of the knuckle relief at the back of the outside of the TG. Use and X-Acto knife to scribe a straight line from the knuckle relief tangent point forward until it clears the bottom of the TG. Do that on both sides. Then shave the soft, unreinforced plastic using whatever tools you're comfortable with until you've connected the two lines. Then round and smooth the edges. Then go shoot it.

Your G34 won't be legal in SSP when you're done, so you'll have a great excuse to go buy some Sigs...

[EVP]

Agree with BobLoblaw, do it your self. Just use like 600grit and just go easy and slow. Just remove the corners and gently round them. Sand them and keep testing till you reach your desired level. Honestly it is easy and does not take long at all.

[LOKNLOD]

Sand paper wrapped around the appropriately-sized dowel rod is the poor man's dremel, if you want to go slow.

I like a worn-out flapper wheel for working on Glock plastic with a dremel. It's good for beveling the edges and stuff. The "give" of a flapper wheel makes it a little less likely you take a big bite out of something by accident. It's more forgiving.

[ASH556]

This is a self-solving problem with daily dryfire.

[SAWBONES]

This is a self-solving problem with daily dryfire.

Well, maybe, but dry fire has no recoil impulse, which is what mostly contributes to "Glock knuckle" when the frame moves abruptly under recoil.

I've Dremeled down all of my (ten to date) Glocks' triggerguards this way, and the edges of the mag release buttons too (being a southpaw).

No problem at all. There's really very little risk of botching the job; the Glock "Polymer 2" is pretty tough stuff, and any slips with the sanding wheel or stone can be readily buffed out.

[BN]

I just use a chain saw file and file until it feels good. I have some needle files to touch up with. It isn't hard and doesn't take long. You don't have to take very much off.

This is modifying the frame and may change what division you shoot in with some competition sports.