Beretta introducing a Langdon Tactical 92!

[Bill]

Having not fully kept up with all of the 92 variations and improvements, I have questions.

How do you rank the various Beretta, Langdon and Wilson 92 variations ? Pros, Cons ?

TONS of information on this question available in this thread and those on the various Wilson guns. Recommend you take the time to read them and many of your questions will be answered. In a nutshell, the differences are:

Brig tac:
Heavier brig slide, Wilson rounded trigger guard, railed frame. Avail with Wilson's "action tune" which involves action parts polishing and a mainspring relacement (but notably, NOT the Wilson trigger bar)

Cent tac:
Centurion/compact VERTEC slide on essentially the same rounded trigger guard frame as the big tac

M9a3:
Vertec grip, standard vertec style slide, M9a1(ish) frame.

LTT elite:
Vertec/M9a3 style slide, Modified M9a1 frame. What sets this pistol apart are the minor tweaks to the frame (radius under the trigger guard, of note), and the Langdon trigger job option, which includes stoning/polishing, springs and a Wilson trigger bar. Objectively, the LTT gives you the most options for the best value, by a good margin.

The rest of the differences are largely aesthetic; grips, sights, packaging etc. . .

Ranking?? Thats largely subjective. The biggest inherent differences are going to be the slide profiles: Brig, standard/vertec/m9a3/, compact/centurion. Each feel and shoot a little different. Neither is better or worse, just different. Common group-think (that I agree with) is that the standard slide and compact/centurion slide's provide the more pleasant shooting characteristics, while the Brig slide can feel clunky and top heavy. YMMV

[Inkwell 41]

So, if you wanted to black out the stainless parts on your LTT 92G, what would you do? I'm thinking lonbond, but don't know who to contact. Any suggestions?

[beenalongtime]

So, if you wanted to black out the stainless parts on your LTT 92G, what would you do? I'm thinking lonbond, but don't know who to contact. Any suggestions?

Honestly, I would first contact EL since he is doing the full boat guns and ask for his price with the trigger/barrel, Rogarded.

[Bill]

So, if you wanted to black out the stainless parts on your LTT 92G, what would you do? I'm thinking lonbond, but don't know who to contact. Any suggestions?

Black steel trigger and screws can be ordered directly from beretta. Barrel's too. Or buy a barrel from allegheny arms and have them flush cut and crown it for another $40, so it keeps that sexy blunt-front profile. Why blacken stainless parts when regular parts exist and are easily swapped in and out?

[LangdonTactical]

Nice to see additional LTT variants of the 92, especially the Elite. Of course, never being satisfied with what is being offered, I would like to ask a few questions about the "full boat" pistols.

1) I am aware that stripping anodizing is required before the process can be done where the edges are radiused/broken. Is there any concern about the frame integrity? This is an issue with alloy 1911-pattern pistol frames due to the geometry. I do not see the issue existing on the 92-series guns, but it is worth asking the question.

2) Is it possible to get the LTT Elite with the trigger work and the NP3 finish on the small parts without the work on the frame?

3) Same question as 2) but breaking the edges of the slide, adding the NP3 finish to the slide ,and leaving the LTT Elite frame as shipped from Beretta?

The reason for the above questions is I believe the NP3 metal finish on the moving parts is a very good thing for guns that usually run with lots of lube. I have a feeling that no matter the answers, I will be buying my third LTT Elite.

So it starts to get a little silly with all the different options. It becomes very difficult to keep the price down and delivery quick when you start running an a la carte menu for things. I try to batch things together the best that I can to keep prices low. When you start doing batches of one with Robar or anyone else, the price goes up quite a bit.

Option 2 is possible for an upcharge of around $250 or so. I would have to run the numbers. I really don't want to get into doing every possible combo.

[BobRockefeller]

I'm late to this party, having been hanging out a The Beretta Forum, but this is a long and interesting thread.

It is especially nice to see Ernest here and participating so regularly!

I, like a lot of folks, am lusting after the LTT Berettas. I think the PX4 Compact Carry with the trigger job will be next for me.

And then the 92 Elite. But I'm not a fan of the stainless barrel and trigger. A Wilson Combat Short Reach Trigger solves that one easily. I could swap the barrel with the black barrel from my M9A1, or buy a new black barrel. But is there an easier way? Maybe have LTT swap it when the trigger job is done?

[dtrice]

So, if you wanted to black out the stainless parts on your LTT 92G, what would you do? I'm thinking lonbond, but don't know who to contact. Any suggestions?

I just went with Cerakote on the whole pistol so it would all match. It works. If the finish wears through eventually, then maybe I'll go with a different color next time.

[dtrice]

While not disagreeing with any the comments already made, there are a few things I've noticed as far as using 92's in ALS holsters.

First, the 7TS seems better to me than the older 63xx ALS holster body. I'm going from a small sample size (I only one one Beretta 7TS, compared to three of the 6-series), but I think the 7TS was designed with a more space, since it also fits the Brig Tac.

Secondly, the holster cant matters somewhat, in that it determines if you're rocking the slide slightly away from the locking mechanism, or slightly into the locking mechanism during the draw. However, on the railed slide guns, the rails prevent the slide from moving away from the locking mechanism, making interference more likely. The short frame guns (Compact & Centurion), seem to do a little better than the full size guns, since the shorter rail clears the ALS mechanism sooner. For example, I can get my WC CenTac to work acceptably in my older 6-series ALS bodies, but those holsters are almost guaranteed to snag my LTT Elite.

Third, the dovetailed front sight guns like the LTT have more metal on the slide near the base of the front sight. This extra thickness also increases the chance of interference with the ALS locking mechanism.

Bottom line, if you have to make the LTT Elite work in an ALS, I recommend you start with a 7TS.

Even then, a full size railed dovetail front sight gun (like the LTT) is the most challenging Beretta configuration I know of to draw smoothly from an ALS.

Indeed. I got a 7TS for the LTT and once locked in it the first time, it did not come out even when locked. I had to heat the kydex a good big to get it to release. This is my first railed Beretta using an ALS holster. I have another ALS for a non-railed 92 and no issues at all.

[Dave J]

Indeed. I got a 7TS for the LTT and once locked in it the first time, it did not come out even when locked. I had to heat the kydex a good big to get it to release. This is my first railed Beretta using an ALS holster. I have another ALS for a non-railed 92 and no issues at all.

Now that you mention it, the first time I tried my Brig Tac in the 7TS, I wasn't entirely sure if it was going to come out, or if I was going to have to disassemble and unfold the holster away from it. I recall thinking "well, that obviously doesn't work," and then some weeks later, noted that Safariland's catalog listed the Brigadier as one of the models the holster was intended for. After learning that, I went back and tried again, found it improved with use, although it's still in the "just barely" category.

However, I just finished a range session with the 7TS and my Elite LTT, and I was shocked to find I had no significant holster issues at all. I suspect that my prior use of this particular holster with my Brig Tac may reamed out the insides enough that it's now a decent fit for the Elite, i.e. at least as good as my non-railed guns are in the old 63xx holsters. I was both surprised and happy about that.

[farscott]

So it starts to get a little silly with all the different options. It becomes very difficult to keep the price down and delivery quick when you start running an a la carte menu for things. I try to batch things together the best that I can to keep prices low. When you start doing batches of one with Robar or anyone else, the price goes up quite a bit.

Option 2 is possible for an upcharge of around $250 or so. I would have to run the numbers. I really don't want to get into doing every possible combo.

I understand the issue with too many a la carte combinations, and I appreciate that "option 2" is a possibility at a reasonable price.