I can do that, and it only took me 30 years to perfect the technique.
A DMT two-sided folding steel (
https://www.dmtonlinestore.com/Produ...x?ProductId=29) works for 90% of what I do. I also have a couple of bench-sized coarse and extra-coarse steels from another maker. If a blade gets completely dull, then I use the coarse one to get it in shape, then finish it up with the folding steel. (I've never used the extra-coarse one, but it's so aggressive that I think I could actually make knives with it.) I keep thinking that one day I'll buy something like this (
https://www.dmtonlinestore.com/10-Du...Base-P8C2.aspx), but it costs almost as much as a case of 9mm FMJ, so I haven't done it yet and probably won't for quite some time.
There are a couple of other things to bear in mind. First, if you touch up a blade before it gets truly dull, then you can resharpen it with just a few strokes on each side. If you let it go too long, then you pretty much have to rebuild the edge, which is a drag. Second, don't let people put your knives in drawers or into the dishwasher where they get banged up against silverware--that destroys an edge way faster than actual use. Wash them by hand immediately after you use them and put them into a knife rack where they won't get screwed up. Third, you may have to teach people how a sharp blade will cut far more efficiently with a light touch than a dull blade will with a gorilla grip and 90% of your upper body strength. I can't tell you how many times I've had to stop someone from mashing a razor-sharp kitchen knife into a ceramic plate while cutting meat or vegetables. It's just not necessary...
Okie John