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Thread: Best value knife sharpening system?

  1. #71
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    Well, being that I don’t possess the honing skills my grandpa had when it came to making a knife sharp enough to split a frog hair four ways with just a plain wet stone, several years ago I coughed up the dough and bought one of those Work Sharp belt sharpeners and I love the piss out of it. I can get my knives sharp enough to where they just glide through a piece of printer paper which is plenty sharp for me. I just wish I could figure out the proper technique to where it’ll put an actual sharp point on the tip rather than kind of rounding it off in a way.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I "inherited" one of the 1.0 gen models from my step father. He ruined every blade in the house with it. I was able to get most at least usable except for a couple of Victorinox kitchen knives which I just ordered replacements for after finding a place that sells them individually. I spent hours with the Lansky deluxe set getting them to cut more than butter and the points are just gone hence the replacements.

    The trick seems to be letting off the switch at the point and not pulling the point through. It's easy to say and comprehend but I'm nowhere near astute enough with it to use it on my knives. It's killer on lawn mower blades and axe like things though!

  2. #72
    OK I got these delivered today.

    Work Sharp - WSBCHAGS Benchtop Angle Set Knife Sharpener - Ken Onion Edition

    and

    Work Sharp EDC Pivot Plus Knife Sharpener

    Both are pretty stupid proof. Sharpened my Large CQC 4KXL Pocketknife from Kershaw-Emerson (6055), a 8" Victorinox Chef knife and a 5" Victorinox Mini Chef's knife with the Benchtop sharpener. It works as advertised. The first two grits being diamond are what saves the day. They cut well and fast. Just flipping around to the ceramic and gives a quite nice edge finishing up. These knives weren't in horrible shape but the course diamond moves the metal pretty good and it only takes a few strokes on each grit to get to shaving sharpness.

    For the EDC Pivot audition I broke out a small and very abused Benchmade auto. I had previously spent over a couple of hours with the Lansky getting the edge mostly back to straight from being utterly mangled by my step father on the powered Worksharp belt sharpener. It looked like a drunk monkey had went to town on it. One would think that it would be immediately obvious that the blade was just too small and short to sharpen on that, but he had a new toy I guess. The Benchmade has a 154CM blade and the little EDC didn't even blink at that. The "pivot" function for the carbide is kinda neat. I thought it was going to be a gimmick but it actually seems to work. This little guy is uber handy for quick work on a tailgate, workbench in the barn, etc. For $7.95 you can't really go wrong. The Benchmade is still fugly and needs a trip back for restoration because the point is just gone and beyond repair, but the blade will still shave.

  3. #73
    One review I read the reviewer felt there was too big of a grit gap between the steel and the stone. It doesnt seem you have the same opinion?

    Quote Originally Posted by Spartan1980 View Post
    OK I got these delivered today.

    Work Sharp - WSBCHAGS Benchtop Angle Set Knife Sharpener - Ken Onion Edition

    and

    Work Sharp EDC Pivot Plus Knife Sharpener

    Both are pretty stupid proof. Sharpened my Large CQC 4KXL Pocketknife from Kershaw-Emerson (6055), a 8" Victorinox Chef knife and a 5" Victorinox Mini Chef's knife with the Benchtop sharpener. It works as advertised. The first two grits being diamond are what saves the day. They cut well and fast. Just flipping around to the ceramic and gives a quite nice edge finishing up. These knives weren't in horrible shape but the course diamond moves the metal pretty good and it only takes a few strokes on each grit to get to shaving sharpness.

    For the EDC Pivot audition I broke out a small and very abused Benchmade auto. I had previously spent over a couple of hours with the Lansky getting the edge mostly back to straight from being utterly mangled by my step father on the powered Worksharp belt sharpener. It looked like a drunk monkey had went to town on it. One would think that it would be immediately obvious that the blade was just too small and short to sharpen on that, but he had a new toy I guess. The Benchmade has a 154CM blade and the little EDC didn't even blink at that. The "pivot" function for the carbide is kinda neat. I thought it was going to be a gimmick but it actually seems to work. This little guy is uber handy for quick work on a tailgate, workbench in the barn, etc. For $7.95 you can't really go wrong. The Benchmade is still fugly and needs a trip back for restoration because the point is just gone and beyond repair, but the blade will still shave.
    I'll wager you a PF dollar™ 😎
    The lunatics are running the asylum

  4. #74
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    I've been using the Work Sharp Precision Adjust sharpener for a few months. I just got a aftermarket attachment that lets it take any four inch sharpening stone, which is pretty nice. But, it is a great system even with just the basic setup. I've always hand sharpened, so I don't have experience with the other fixed angle systems, but this definitely makes sharpening knives that are thin behind the edge easier. Those are the only knives I'm never sure about when hand sharpening because the bevel is so small that it isn't easy to tell if I'm sharpening evenly.

  5. #75
    Quote Originally Posted by UNK View Post
    One review I read the reviewer felt there was too big of a grit gap between the steel and the stone. It doesnt seem you have the same opinion?
    On paper I would tend to agree. For those who like bench stones, water stones up to 6000 grit and who want that perfect mirror smooth ultra keen edge, this isn't going to work for that. I tried for years and could never get the results I wanted with bench stones no matter how good the stone was, type or grit. The problem is me just not being consistent enough.

    This is for more utilitarian work. I was kind of surprised that the difference between the two diamond grits was as far apart as they are, but bear in mind that I don't have a lot of experience with diamond stones either. The manual cautions about going to the next finer step too soon and before you have a burr on the edge. I wasn't getting along very well on one knife starting on the fine diamond and resorted to starting afresh with the coarse and working all the way up. It worked as advertised when I did that. An edge that's just dull and but rolled excessively or chipped and such will probably be good with about 12 passes on each side on each grit. Soon I'm going to make myself a bench strop out of some leather I found rolled up in the shed. That should put a finer finish on it and I can use it on my planer blades too, but this sharpener works pretty dang well for general purpose type work and doesn't take hours.

  6. #76
    Thanks for taking the time to write that up. A G Russel has a pretty good tutorial on making your own finishing paddle.


    https://agrussell.com/knifesharpenin...nishing-paddle


    Quote Originally Posted by Spartan1980 View Post
    On paper I would tend to agree. For those who like bench stones, water stones up to 6000 grit and who want that perfect mirror smooth ultra keen edge, this isn't going to work for that. I tried for years and could never get the results I wanted with bench stones no matter how good the stone was, type or grit. The problem is me just not being consistent enough.

    This is for more utilitarian work. I was kind of surprised that the difference between the two diamond grits was as far apart as they are, but bear in mind that I don't have a lot of experience with diamond stones either. The manual cautions about going to the next finer step too soon and before you have a burr on the edge. I wasn't getting along very well on one knife starting on the fine diamond and resorted to starting afresh with the coarse and working all the way up. It worked as advertised when I did that. An edge that's just dull and but rolled excessively or chipped and such will probably be good with about 12 passes on each side on each grit. Soon I'm going to make myself a bench strop out of some leather I found rolled up in the shed. That should put a finer finish on it and I can use it on my planer blades too, but this sharpener works pretty dang well for general purpose type work and doesn't take hours.
    I'll wager you a PF dollar™ 😎
    The lunatics are running the asylum

  7. #77
    The angle adjustment system on that looks really useful. Can you post the link to the adapter?

    Quote Originally Posted by joshs View Post
    I've been using the Work Sharp Precision Adjust sharpener for a few months. I just got a aftermarket attachment that lets it take any four inch sharpening stone, which is pretty nice. But, it is a great system even with just the basic setup. I've always hand sharpened, so I don't have experience with the other fixed angle systems, but this definitely makes sharpening knives that are thin behind the edge easier. Those are the only knives I'm never sure about when hand sharpening because the bevel is so small that it isn't easy to tell if I'm sharpening evenly.
    I'll wager you a PF dollar™ 😎
    The lunatics are running the asylum

  8. #78
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Quote Originally Posted by UNK View Post
    The angle adjustment system on that looks really useful. Can you post the link to the adapter?
    This one: https://www.gritomatic.com/products/...SAAEgLvhPD_BwE

    There is a 3d printed one available on eBay too: https://www.ebay.com/itm/124908269539

  9. #79
    I just ordered one thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by Spartan1980 View Post
    On paper I would tend to agree. For those who like bench stones, water stones up to 6000 grit and who want that perfect mirror smooth ultra keen edge, this isn't going to work for that. I tried for years and could never get the results I wanted with bench stones no matter how good the stone was, type or grit. The problem is me just not being consistent enough.

    This is for more utilitarian work. I was kind of surprised that the difference between the two diamond grits was as far apart as they are, but bear in mind that I don't have a lot of experience with diamond stones either. The manual cautions about going to the next finer step too soon and before you have a burr on the edge. I wasn't getting along very well on one knife starting on the fine diamond and resorted to starting afresh with the coarse and working all the way up. It worked as advertised when I did that. An edge that's just dull and but rolled excessively or chipped and such will probably be good with about 12 passes on each side on each grit. Soon I'm going to make myself a bench strop out of some leather I found rolled up in the shed. That should put a finer finish on it and I can use it on my planer blades too, but this sharpener works pretty dang well for general purpose type work and doesn't take hours.
    I'll wager you a PF dollar™ 😎
    The lunatics are running the asylum

  10. #80
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    I’ve used the Spyderco Sharpmaker for years and it works great for touch-ups. Very simple to
    use and portable as well.

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