Aftermarket Glock Triggers

[JonInWA]

Stupid question: does the fact that AR's have external safeties, but Glocks do not, not enter into this at all?

It's not a stupid question, but in my opinion it doesn't really significantly enter into the discussion (or my previous answer).

Best, Jon

[Steaz]

That's a good question OP. Such an obvious topic but I am not sure I've read a thread asking that specifically before, that I can remember, on other forums.

Both in person and anecdotally, the best way that I've consistently observed to move a Glock from "reliable" to "unreliable" to to go the aftermarket parts route.

This is what I was going to say ^

The single best way to get a Glock to malfunction is modify it (and/or feed it reloads). Stock Glocks with new factory commercial ammo and Glock (or now Magpul) mags tend to 'just work'.

Geissele FCG's (triggers) in AR type rifles also just work. Also, when it comes to the AR type rifles, just about everybody makes them, because they can. It's not like the parts are either Colt (or Armalite, or Stoner...), or aftermarket; whereas with Glock it's either Glock or it's aftermarket. Along with this, a lot of folks assemble their own AR rifle with parts from all kinds of manufacturers, to the point where this is kind of the norm for 'gun people' or even just do it yourself type people who take a small interest in guns. Not so with Glocks. Almost entirely, the way to have a Glock, is to buy a complete Glock pistol from Glock with all Glock parts, even if you are super high speed low drag, that's probably how your Glock begins its life with you (and even if you get a special one, like a Vickers Glock, it may not have anything done to the trigger). So it would be kind of ridiculous to insist people have, say, an AR FCG that matches the rollmark on their lower. Or would it be one that matches the barrel? Or would it make the FCG...or...would it be suggested to only use an AR for potential defense if the entire thing was purchased complete from a manufacturer and nothing at all was changed? Yeah who is going to do that lol



But really, messing with them is the best way to make them end up not working right

[davisj]

Thanks for the replies. For clarification the only mods to my carry Gen4 G19 are an OEM "-" connector and a Gen3 G17 trigger bar. I prefer the smooth trigger shoe and had a Gen3 trigger bar in my box of parts. I have installed a Ghost connector in my G43 as the OEM was horrendous. I'd gladly install an OEM "-" in the G43 if it were available.

Hypothetically, if Geissele were to get into the Glock trigger bar/shoe business (all factory safeties including length of pull and reset conforming to stock) would this change your calculus if the result were an aluminum trigger shoe where the tab sat flush with the face of the trigger and the only difference in trigger pull was smoother and not lighter?

IMO the fact that an AR has a manual safety does play somewhat into the decision to improve the trigger characteristics with Geissele triggers. I have an SSA and a G2S, both of which I've been happy with. Based on my experience but also with Geissele's track record, if they got into the Glock trigger market I'd consider trying one, at least on a range gun.

[Mr_White]

For me it's less about the possible legal issues, and more about the functional issues. I personally am paranoid about aftermarket fire control parts in Glocks - trigger bars, connectors, trigger housing units, firing pin safeties, firing pins, and some of the involved springs. Ditto OEM parts that have been modified in any way beyond simple polishing and cherry picking. I love the OEM Minus connector, and I don't mind a very modest amount of spring changes.

It just seems absolutely paramount to me that the gun fires when I pull the trigger, only fires ONE time when I pull the trigger, and does not fire when I don't pull the trigger. The fire control parts are central to all of that.

I don't have any studies or data to back this up. It's an issue for me at the emotional level.

[Steaz]

Thanks for the replies. For clarification the only mods to my carry Gen4 G19 are an OEM "-" connector and a Gen3 G17 trigger bar. I prefer the smooth trigger shoe and had a Gen3 trigger bar in my box of parts. I have installed a Ghost connector in my G43 as the OEM was horrendous. I'd gladly install an OEM "-" in the G43 if it were available.

Hypothetically, if Geissele were to get into the Glock trigger bar/shoe business (all factory safeties including length of pull and reset conforming to stock) would this change your calculus if the result were an aluminum trigger shoe where the tab sat flush with the face of the trigger and the only difference in trigger pull was smoother and not lighter?

IMO the fact that an AR has a manual safety does play somewhat into the decision to improve the trigger characteristics with Geissele triggers. I have an SSA and a G2S, both of which I've been happy with. Based on my experience but also with Geissele's track record, if they got into the Glock trigger market I'd consider trying one, at least on a range gun.

For me, the response to the bold, is that if Geissele got into that, and the triggers were used by SOF as well as by a lot of 'in the know' and 'btdt' types, for a period of years, with glowing reviews across the board, and there was an appropriate pull weight/travel (as the only or as a choice) I would at that time change my stance. But that is necessarily years in the distance since it requires years of solid service and repute.

[vcdgrips]

I have been shooting Glocks since 1991. I have been carrying a Gen 3 Glock G35 since 2005. I will take an OEM (-) connector, std trigger return spring and simply drive on.
I confess I have been intrigued by the "straight" trigger craze but I am concerned with reliabilty. I suspect if I was going to take a walk on the wild side I would go with Apex given their engineering skill set exhibited in other applications.

[Jeep]

IMO the fact that an AR has a manual safety does play somewhat into the decision to improve the trigger characteristics with Geissele triggers.

Certainly it does with me. If the AR didn't have a manual safety I would stick with the heavier original trigger. I have seen far too many AD/ND's that come from something happening with a light trigger without a safety (including seeing Glocks with extra special aftermarket triggers decide that they want to become Glcok 18's).

Of course, I am also eagerly awaiting being able to buy Gadgets for my Glocks. Reasonably light triggers, in my opinion, are good things so long as you can apply a safety. They aren't so good without one.

[YVK]

Stupid question: does the fact that AR's have external safeties, but Glocks do not, not enter into this at all?

No, not for me. Holster is a de facto external safety. My Glocks either have that safety on, or they are being fired, or they are unloaded. No loaded pistol left unholstered. ARs either have safety on, or being fired, or unloaded. Don't see much difference.

[JCS]

Trigger weight can lead to some tricky legal issues. I'm not a lawyer, but for instance, a prosecutor could argue that by lightening your trigger, you actually fired accidentally rather than intentionally, which would negate your self-defense claims. Andrew Branca discussed this on an episode of Ballistic Radio not too long ago, that's worth a listen.

ETA: Another good place to find info into this rationale is looking into discussions about the LEM trigger, especially length of pull versus weight of pull. That's been debated endlessly here on PF and elsewhere, but here's one such thread.

I literally changed my carry gun back to stock springs after hearing that podcast. He makes a lot of good points.

Also another interesting point along this topic is: why is it acceptable to put $500-$1000 in a 1911 and carry it but people think it's not okay to put $30 in springs in a Glock. I'm not a 1911 guy so I never knew.

[GJM]

I literally changed my carry gun back to stock springs after hearing that podcast. He makes a lot of good points.

Also another interesting point along this topic is: why is it acceptable to put $500-$1000 in a 1911 and carry it but people think it's not okay to put $30 in springs in a Glock. I'm not a 1911 guy so I never knew.

At the risk of generalizing, you put money into your 1911 to make it reliable, and put money into your Glock to make it not reliable.