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Chief Developer for V Development Group
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Just do what my old agency did with the first gun they issued me....just use glue. They gave me the biggest pile of shit in the fleet to take through the academy to teach the "gun guy" a lesson about following in lockstep. The gun fell apart in my hands during the top gun shoot (I had already won the combat shoot by a mile.....with half a rear sight). Turns out the yoke retention screw was stripped, so it was just glued into the gun. Imagine my surprise when I went for my last reload and had the entire cylinder assembly in my hand. Even after having to find the screw on the ground and reassembling the gun, I still made time and took 2nd place...against a deputy with a 6" heavily customized 686.
Like I said, we had Smith & Wesson screw drivers on the range so you could tighten all your screws up everytime you shot.
Just a Hairy Special Snowflake supply clerk with no field experience, shooting an Asymetric carbine as a Try Hard. Snarky and easily butt hurt. Favorite animal is the Cape Buffalo....likely indicative of a personality disorder.
"If I had a grandpa, he would look like Delbert Belton".
Loctite 242 is love. Loctite 242 is life.
The new yoke screw assemblies (the ones with the spring loaded plunger) have what looks like red threadlocking compound cured on the screw. (It's not the permanent red loctite). The screw comes out easy once you get it started, but whatever that plasticy glue/paint shit is, it does a really good job of keeping them from backing out. I'm surprised they don't also put it on the sideplate screws...
Actually, the M-68 was originally made for CHP... LAPRAAC (the gun/gear store at the LAPD academy) procured some for sale to the troops. I don't think the M-68 was ever an issue piece for LAPD... but I could be wrong.
Anybody know how to get in touch with Bob Kolesar? He would know.
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Ah... okay. I got in the habit, a long time ago, of routinely brushing underneath the extractor star... whether it needs it or not. Likewise, checking the ejector rod for snugness. And the secret to snug screws that don't get loose is a proper-fitting screwdriver.
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I've never had much of an issue with the sideplate screws, strain screws, etc backing out if I used the Brownells magna-tip bits. Same with the extractor rod once I got the tool and tightened them properly. But I could definitely see worn or ragged out guns being a problem. If I had a loaner with a stripped yoke screw (like in nyeti's case) or an extractor that just wouldn't stay put I'd definitely just douse it in loctite for the last few miles of its service life.
Mostly once I've got one that's in good shape and been put together correctly I just drop bullets in it and go. The chambers and cylinder face get at least a dry brush before every match. Beyond that..
Last edited by jh9; 05-12-2016 at 09:30 AM.
I knew I was going to like the GP series when I bought my first GP100, cracked open the manual, and found instructions on how to detail strip the gun. To me, Ruger innards are much less of a black box than their Smith counterparts; no matter how many times I remove and replace a S&W side plate, I still have fears of warping or otherwise butchering that closely fitted piece of metal.
As far as PM, good question. I've never had to do any on a Ruger DA revolver beyond cleaning and a detail strip about once a year or if I take an unexpected dunking whilst fishing or backpacking.