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Thread: Revolver realities - Living with the revolver as a duty sidearm

  1. #141
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    Southwest Pennsylvania
    Quote Originally Posted by BillSWPA View Post
    My gun is fortunately very close for windage even at 25 yards, but requires a 0.050" taller front sight, preferably something with a vertical, nonreflective rear face.

    I spoke with a gunsmith about this once. His thoughts were either welding on an additional front sight portion or cutting a dovetail (I believe he meant perpendicular to the barrel like the cut on many semiautos). The latter option is interesting. I found some sight blanks that could have been cut to the right size and shape. Even more attractive would be finding a semiauto front sight the correct height, perhaps with a tritium insert. I have not checked around for one, but if that could be found, it would really simplify both initial installation and later replacement. The disadvantage is the effect on the gun's appearance.

    The gun has not been a daily carry gun for many years, so the project has not been a sufficiently high priority for either the time or funds required. I also hesitate to modify a Colt revolver given that their value keeps going up.
    Taking a few measurements, the Detective Special factory front sight is 0.1045" wide. The sight sits on a rib along the top of the barrel. The height is 0.132" without the rib and 0.173 with the rib.

    Comparing those dimensions to the options for this sight: https://dawsonprecision.com/kimber-optic-front-sights/, it is available in a 0.100" width and .0180 tall. That is very close to 0.05" taller than the factory front sight not including the rib. It is also available in a 0.100" width and 0.220" height, about 0.05 inches taller than the factory sight with the rib. Going with fiber optic rather than tritium means I don't have to change the sight when the tritium goes dim, which would be more difficult with a revolver than it would be with a semiauto even with a dovetail cut. Hmmmmmmmmm.

  2. #142
    Member KevH's Avatar
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    Feb 2011
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    Contra Costa County, CA
    When it comes to Colts the best advice I can give is to find a gunsmith that truly knows Colts. Many Colts have been jacked up by guys that don't know how to work on them. They're a bit more complex and refined (delicate) than a S&W.

    There are still a few guys around that truly know these things. Reeves Jungkind, may he rest in peace, was the master. Karl Sokol knows them well. There are others, but you have to hunt around to find them.

    I have seen quite a few barrels from the 1980's that are torqued off, which then cause the sights to be off, which then causes the shooter to say, "This gun is junk." All it usually takes is a competent gunsmith to put the barrel where it needs to be and the gun is fine.

    I keep spare hands and lockwork pieces for my Colts, since I'm paranoid and don't want to have to play the "hunt for parts" game when its time.

    My Agent is not stock. For a stock D-frame, I prefer the late-1960's guns (no barrel shroud / short frame). The sights are much easier to see, the quality is usually high, and it still has the short grip frame.

  3. #143
    Quote Originally Posted by nyeti View Post
    I have a box o D frames. I can pull a nice one for you and ship it along with my FFL to send the 242 back my way......I would put one of the winky emotithings, but I am hoping you actually say "sounds perfect".
    Well, I would say you're either smoking left-handed cigarettes, or sipping too much Russian water... :-)

    .

  4. #144
    Member rsa-otc's Avatar
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    Feb 2011
    Location
    South Central NJ
    Another data point.

    Just finished my Instructors recertification last week using my Mdl 13-3. 700 rounds of Freedom Munitions 158 and 125 grain FMJ down range over three afternoons and an evening shoot. The gun ran like a champ. The only issue was the hole worn in my trigger finger.



    When Smith changed their trigger to a smooth faced version they changed the upper geometry as well and I usually end up with this issue after heavy sessions. Once I got back home I rounded/softened the area that caused the issue.

    This makes the 6th instructor level course I have taken with Smith Revolvers:
    1979 - Mdl 14 using lead rounds of the time
    1997 - Mdl 686 using FMJ rounds provided by the school
    2007 - Mdl 19 using American Eagle 158 Grain Lead Round Nose
    2010 - Mdl 19 Using reloaded 158 Grain Plated Bullets
    2013 - Mdl 686 using 158 grain Molly round nose bullets
    2013 - Mdl 13-3 using the Freedom Munitions mentioned earlier.

    All these schools were 600 plus rounds and I cannot remember having to do any maintenance on the guns during the schools.
    Last edited by rsa-otc; 09-20-2016 at 01:57 PM.
    Scott
    Only Hits Count - The Faster the Hit the more it Counts!!!!!!; DELIVER THE SHOT!
    Stephen Hillier - "An amateur practices until he can do it right, a professional practices until he can't do it wrong."

  5. #145
    Quote Originally Posted by rsa-otc View Post
    Another data point.

    Just finished my Instructors recertification last week using my Mdl 13-3. 700 rounds of Freedom Munitions 158 and 125 grain FMJ down range over three afternoons and an evening shoot. The gun ran like a champ. The only issue was the hole worn in my trigger finger.



    When Smith changed their trigger to a smooth faced version they changed the upper geometry as well and I usually end up with this issue after heavy sessions. Once I got back home I rounded/softened the area that caused the issue.

    This makes the 6th instructor level course I have taken with Smith Revolvers:
    1979 - Mdl 14 using lead rounds of the time
    1997 - Mdl 686 using FMJ rounds provided by the school
    2007 - Mdl 19 using American Eagle 158 Grain Lead Round Nose
    2010 - Mdl 19 Using reloaded 158 Grain Plated Bullets
    2013 - Mdl 686 using 158 grain Molly round nose bullets
    2013 - Mdl 13-3 using the Freedom Munitions mentioned earlier.

    All these schools were 600 plus rounds and I cannot remember having to do any maintenance on the guns during the schools.
    I've suffered from the finger erosion/blistering due to the sharp edge on the uppermost portion of the smooth trigger. Glad you got it fixed. I'm not a gun plumber, so I just wrap my finger in duct tape. I try to avoid any breaks in the skin on my hands because I work in the mouth of Hepatitis and HIV patients.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #146
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
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    Oct 2013
    Location
    Northern Rockies
    I prefer the grooved triggers, but I de-burr then with a stone to get rid of sharp edges and the occasional sharp groove on the face. Bottom edge often needs it also. I didnt realize they changed anything about the shape or geometry of the smooth triggers. I just never cared for them, they always felt squirmy and odd.

    BTW, I have a factory smooth stainless Smith trigger Id trade for a factory grooved one, stainless or not.

  7. #147
    Site Supporter Lon's Avatar
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    Apr 2011
    Location
    Dayton, Ohio
    My 65-3 does that to my trigger finger as well. Haven't got around to smoothing it out yet. It's chrome covered so not sure what that'll do to the chrome.
    Formerly known as xpd54.
    The opinions expressed in this post are my own and do not reflect the opinions or policies of my employer.
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  8. #148
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    Oct 2013
    Location
    Georgia
    Quote Originally Posted by rsa-otc View Post
    Another data point.

    Just finished my Instructors recertification last week using my Mdl 13-3. 700 rounds of Freedom Munitions 158 and 125 grain FMJ down range over three afternoons and an evening shoot. The gun ran like a champ. The only issue was the hole worn in my trigger finger.


    That is what the bottom of my finger looks like after 50 rounds from my 360J

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