SIG P228 failures to fire

[Jeep]

Call me the voice of dissent, but your 228 should be going through whatever factory hard primers you put in it. You said the pistol had been "resprung" with a TGS spring kit. Are you referring to a standard parts kit, or perhaps one of the reduced power Grayguns kits? If the latter, and your envisioning using the pistol in a defensive capacity, I'd be thinking about putting a stock weight hammer (main) spring back in the gun.

As others mentioned, taking the slide down and ensuring there isn't any debris in the firing pin channel is a good idea. Be aware though that burrs can form on the firing pin itself causing light strikes. And they can be REALLY difficult to diagnose. If you've ruled out everything else, replacing the firing pin itself may remedy further issues.

I've dabbled with mainsprings as low as 17 and 18 lbs with good success trying to improve felt trigger weight in my match guns. Regardless, my work guns get full power ones.

t

I've found that a 19# mainspring will reliably bust all primers, including foreign ones and still make the DA pull not-ridiculous. 18 # mainsprings, in my experience, bust all American primers, but will have an occasional issue with a foreign primer.

[NEPAKevin]

I ordered the kit thinking it was a standard one. The trigger pull on the gun feels lighter than almost all other classic Sigs I have handled.
At this point, the P228 is strictly a range toy since my work gun is a Glock 23.
It may become an EDC post retirement in probably January 2018, unless someone pisses me off to the point where I punch my KMA card earlier.
At the next service interval, a heavier main spring will go in.

Older P series SIGs had a heavier trigger and at some point around the early nineties(?) they changed the design of the hammer strut/spring assembly to use a plastic main spring seat, in stead of a captured spring which usually has a lighter feel and is much easier to remove and replace. With the admission that I suck at getting the strut back in place in the the hammer, changing the new style main/hammer spring is not that difficult and likely the reason for the light trigger. The old style, has no plastic piece and the spring is held on the strut by a tiny roll pin that sits on an extension of the frame, is a PIA to R&R the spring. If you dry fire a lot with out a snap cap or similar device, it is possible (as previously noted) to damage the firing pin. I had this happen with a P226 with a solid firing pin retaining pin and had to remove the FPRP, stone the edges where the firing pin had peened against the pin, clean out the firing pin channel and replace the firing pin spring and FPRP.

[LSP552]

I've found that a 19# mainspring will reliably bust all primers, including foreign ones and still make the DA pull not-ridiculous. 18 # mainsprings, in my experience, bust all American primers, but will have an occasional issue with a foreign primer.

I've found that a 19lb spring in a 226 will weaken enough over time and use to not bust primers, so I change it often. As a safety fudge, I change it about every 3-5 K.

My carry guns use stock springs.

[taadski]

I've found that a 19# mainspring will reliably bust all primers, including foreign ones and still make the DA pull not-ridiculous. 18 # mainsprings, in my experience, bust all American primers, but will have an occasional issue with a foreign primer.

I've found that a 19lb spring in a 226 will weaken enough over time and use to not bust primers, so I change it often. As a safety fudge, I change it about every 3-5 K.

My carry guns use stock springs.

We've had a bunch of issues with light strikes with both 124 grain Federal HST (our duty load) and our practice ammunition (American Eagle 124 ball) when testing the 19 lb mainsprings. In both 228s and 226s. Across enough guns that I don't consider it a fluke.