Cleaning your 642

[Clay]

According to the S&W Academy armorer I spoke to years ago, CLP of some type is preferable on the aluminum framed guns, especially the clear coated ones like the 642. He also cautioned against the spray degreasers, as he felt that degreasing the gun too much could be harmful to the aluminum itself, and basically recommended using nothing but a CLP. At that time I think they had their own line they were hawking. He said Break-Free CLP was excellent.

S&W itself recommends against getting any bore solvents on the clear coat, like Hoppes #9, or any other harsh solvents. I wrecked the clear coat on my first 642 by using Gun Scrubber on it several times. The Hoppes Elite/Mpro 7/ Slip 725 "green" solvents have been fine on everything I've used them on.

I use the CLP and Boresnake option most of the time, but if it's really nasty, I take off the sideplate and really scrub the barrel and cylinder.

The benefit of using a CLP type product is you don't have to worry about any solvent leaking down into the action and so-on. The downside is most CLP's don't do a great job of removing lead, if you like to shoot lead ammo like wadcutters. I don't shoot my j-frames enough to worry about it, so I have good results with Break-Free CLP, G-96 Gun Treatment, or Weaponshield.

https://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstor...ver_Manual.pdf

[Whirlwind06]

I use bore snake for quick clean up after a range trip. Then every 500 rounds or so I use a brass jag with wet and dry patches. That really gets the lead out
I also put a few drops of clp on the ejection rod then depress the rod a few times and wipe off the gunk that comes up out of cylinder.

[FotoTomas]

Not much to add other than removing the stocks occasionally. Sometimes junk can collect and occasional rust on steel parts. Worth taking a look once or twice a year.

[Moonshot]

How often is it recommended to remove the side plate screw holding the yoke in place, allowing the cylinder and yoke to be removed for easier cleaning?