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Thread: Cleaning your 642

  1. #1
    Member 23JAZ's Avatar
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    Cleaning your 642

    What do you guys do to clean you 642 and how often do you do it?
    212

  2. #2
    Most of the time:

    1: Thread a bore snake through every chamber and clean all the chambers. 2-3 times per chamber usually does it.
    2: Use a bore snake to clean the barrel.
    3: Scrub all fouling/lead from the front side of the cylinder and most of the frame (forcing cone, bottom of top strap, firing pin hole area)

    If I'm shooting mostly lead and carrying the gun, I'll do it every 150-250 rounds. I like my J-Frames clean, since they often end up in dress clothing.


    I've had to do much deeper cleanings for various reasons, let me know if you need/want more details.
    Last edited by warpedcamshaft; 04-14-2016 at 10:54 PM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by warpedcamshaft View Post
    Most of the time:

    1: Thread a bore snake through every chamber and clean all the chambers. 2-3 times per chamber usually does it.
    2: Use a bore snake to clean the barrel.
    3: Scrub all fouling/lead from the front side of the cylinder and most of the frame (forcing cone, bottom of top strap, firing pin hole area)

    If I'm shooting mostly lead and carrying the gun, I'll do it every 150-250 rounds. I like my J-Frames clean, since they often end up in dress clothing.


    I've had to do much deeper cleanings for various reasons, let me know if you need/want more details.
    Sounds about right. Nylon brush on the aluminum, not brass, unless you want the anodizing to depart.

  4. #4
    Member 23JAZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by warpedcamshaft View Post
    Most of the time:

    1: Thread a bore snake through every chamber and clean all the chambers. 2-3 times per chamber usually does it.
    2: Use a bore snake to clean the barrel.
    3: Scrub all fouling/lead from the front side of the cylinder and most of the frame (forcing cone, bottom of top strap, firing pin hole area)

    If I'm shooting mostly lead and carrying the gun, I'll do it every 150-250 rounds. I like my J-Frames clean, since they often end up in dress clothing.


    I've had to do much deeper cleanings for various reasons, let me know if you need/want more details.
    Any specific points I should or shouldn't lube?
    212

  5. #5
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    Unrelated to your question about lube, but in addition to what's already been said, I keep the area under the extractor star clean and dry. I also check that the little knurled nut out on the end of a S&W ejector rod is tight. Those two pieces of maintenance will mitigate against some of the more common revolver tie-ups.

  6. #6
    Member 23JAZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMD View Post
    Unrelated to your question about lube, but in addition to what's already been said, I keep the area under the extractor star clean and dry. I also check that the little knurled nut out on the end of a S&W ejector rod is tight. Those two pieces of maintenance will mitigate against some of the more common revolver tie-ups.
    Great info. Thank you!
    212

  7. #7
    Member 23JAZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by warpedcamshaft View Post
    Most of the time:

    1: Thread a bore snake through every chamber and clean all the chambers. 2-3 times per chamber usually does it.
    2: Use a bore snake to clean the barrel.
    3: Scrub all fouling/lead from the front side of the cylinder and most of the frame (forcing cone, bottom of top strap, firing pin hole area)

    If I'm shooting mostly lead and carrying the gun, I'll do it every 150-250 rounds. I like my J-Frames clean, since they often end up in dress clothing.


    I've had to do much deeper cleanings for various reasons, let me know if you need/want more details.
    Much appreciated.
    212

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by SMD View Post
    Unrelated to your question about lube, but in addition to what's already been said, I keep the area under the extractor star clean and dry. I also check that the little knurled nut out on the end of a S&W ejector rod is tight. Those two pieces of maintenance will mitigate against some of the more common revolver tie-ups.
    Yes... This is good advice.

    Also, Always ensure your crane screw is tight.

    Thats pretty much all you will need to do unless you take a swim with it or bury it in sand for some reason
    Last edited by warpedcamshaft; 04-15-2016 at 02:25 PM.

  9. #9
    Hoplophilic doc SAWBONES's Avatar
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    IME, bore snakes are capable of only the most superficial level of bore cleaning.

    My own approach:
    Using a toothbrush and M-Pro 7, I brush the front of the cylinder, the inner surface of the topstrap and forcing cone, and the recoil shield.
    I don't worry about getting the front of the cylinder altogether clean, but I want to prevent any degree of buildup of firing residue that would impair cylinder rotation.

    Carefully brushing the bore from the muzzle using a brass brush, M-Pro 7 and a rod with a conical muzzle guard, followed by M-Pro 7-soaked patches, followed by a couple dry patches (till clean), then an oil-soaked path and one more dry patch.

    Takes only a few minutes after shooting.
    "Therefore, since the world has still... Much good, but much less good than ill,
    And while the sun and moon endure, Luck's a chance, but trouble's sure,
    I'd face it as a wise man would, And train for ill and not for good." -- A.E. Housman

  10. #10
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    Nov 2015
    BALLISTOL and for the face of the cylinder Flitz

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