I'm not familiar with CFE-Pistol. I was assuming you were assembling very light loads. If so, the larger .357 case volume gives even more room for trouble.
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I'm not familiar with CFE-Pistol. I was assuming you were assembling very light loads. If so, the larger .357 case volume gives even more room for trouble.
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CFE-P, IIRC, is basically HS-6 (or was it Autocomp - I forget) with the copper fouling eraser thing that they developed for CFE 223 added to it, so it's not a super fast powder. I can't really speak to the safety of loading it in a large case with a lot of space, but I expect it's much safer than something like, say, Titegroup.Originally Posted by LSP972
Say what???
Passingly familiar with HS-6; no clue re AutoComp. Copper fouling eraser? Yeah… right.
Thank you sir, for the info. Think I'll pass on these new-fangled powders; old-school is working for me.
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I used WST until The Great Ammo Scare and ran out. CFE-Pistol was what I could get in an 8 lb jug.Say what???
Passingly familiar with HS-6; no clue re AutoComp. Copper fouling eraser? Yeah… right.
Thank you sir, for the info. Think I'll pass on these new-fangled powders; old-school is working for me.
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As far as copper removal, the military seems to think it works. Other folks testing it has also confirmed it in rifles:
http://www.dispatchnews.com/2013/01/...uns-foul-free/Metcalf’s test rifle barrel was already fouling-free, thanks to 200 rounds of handloads just fired, so he put another 100 rounds of American Eagle commercial ammo through it. A bore scope revealed definite fouling, though not quite as much as from twice as many rounds of the same load the first time. The rifle was then allowed to sit for a week (uncleaned), and then 100 CFE 223 handloads were rapid-fired through it. It came out like a freshly-cleaned barrel.
The new powder definitely does “erase” previous fouling, but Metcalf said he agrees with the Hodgdon engineer who commented it would probably be a lot more cost-effective and time-effective just to clean a heavily fouled and inaccurate bore by conventional means than to shoot hundreds of CFE 223 handloads through it. But a steady diet of the “eraser” propellant from the onset will certainly keep it from getting fouled in the first place.
Something chemically bonds with the copper and makes it flake so it breaks loose and is expelled out the muzzle. Antimony, IIRC, but it's been a bit since I looked into it. It's main draw to me was "available". It's been a great powder in .45 ACP.
Last edited by BehindBlueI's; 05-07-2016 at 09:38 PM.
Me too, but by the time I got around to trying it, I also had a pound of N320 to play with, and while the CFE-P worked fine for 9mm, N320 is super nice, so the CFE-P has just sat on the bench waiting its turn, whereas I ordered several jugs of N320. It's a perfectly acceptable backup, and I'll use it WAY before I ever use the 1/2 or 1/3 pound of Unique I still have lying around, but unless a) my shooting volume increases a ton, and b) we go through another powder shortage, it'll likely be sitting for a long time.
Hodgdon's reply.We cannot suggest putting a magnum primer into your cartridge since it will change pressures.
What I feel is a combination of the load is your problem. In order to change this you need to have a good tight roll crimp on the cannelure of the bullet so the cartridge can have good bullet hold to develop pressures so when the primer goes off it is actually pushing the bullet forward before the powder had time to ignite well and build pressure. Plated bullets do not have a cannelure and we suggest either using Jacketed or lead bullets that have a crimping groove. Try this first and this should solve your problem, if it does not solve your problem than you need to switch to a different powder like Titegroup which is less case sensitive.
Interestingly enough, Xtreme plated bullets do have a cannelure. I think the answer is "this powder sucks for .38".
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