View Poll Results: Which chainsaw for under $400?

Voters
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  • Stihl MS251

    30 45.45%
  • Husky 445

    10 15.15%
  • Dolmar 421

    3 4.55%
  • Mods here are shit

    15 22.73%
  • Some other saw

    10 15.15%
Multiple Choice Poll.
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Thread: LittleLebowski's big inspirational chainsaw thread

  1. #391
    Quote Originally Posted by AKDoug View Post
    Other than it doesn't say Stihl on it, it should do fine I like 18" bars on 50cc saws..
    Is there a comparable lightweight Stihl bar that would work? Yeah, I'm happy with the 18" bar. Just got in a Stihl 25RS chain yesterday, but so far the Husky OEM chain cuts well.
    #RESIST

  2. #392
    Site Supporter
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    Jan 2012
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    Fort Worth, TX
    Quote Originally Posted by RoyGBiv View Post
    In furtherance of home projects, I picked up an electric pole saw last week. Basically a small chain saw on a telescoping stick. I've had good performance from the little SunJoe pressure washer I bought last year, so I gave them a try for their pole saw. LINK. I spent a few hours cutting suckers off my trees from the safety of the ground instead of a ladder. Lopped off a few branches, up to 4 inches or so thick, like a hot knife through butter. Overall, I'm happy with the purchase.

    3 minor complaints, 1. It's a bit heavy, especially when reaching out fully and 2. I'd like to have some ability to rotate the head out of line with the trigger. When trying to be delicate about removing suckers, it would be nice to be able to see the chain without the sight line being blocked by the head. 3. If you try to store it standing up in a corner, your choice is to stand it on the bar (covered) or if the bar is up, the electic cord comes out of the handle in a way that standing it on the handle means standing it on the cord, unless you've very careful.

    Solid 4 out of 5 stars so far.
    Of course this saw is a deal of the day on Amazon today.... for $14 less than I paid last week. LINK.
    "No free man shall ever be debarred the use of arms." - Thomas Jefferson, Virginia Constitution, Draft 1, 1776

  3. #393
    Quote Originally Posted by LittleLebowski View Post
    Is there a comparable lightweight Stihl bar that would work? Yeah, I'm happy with the 18" bar. Just got in a Stihl 25RS chain yesterday, but so far the Husky OEM chain cuts well.
    There isn't.. I was just messing with you. That looks like a nice bar.

  4. #394
    Member Crazy Dane's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    In the far blue mountains
    Quote Originally Posted by Cookie Monster View Post
    Tell me more. What length wedge, 5”, 8”, 10”? Single or double taper? Where in the backcut? What’s the process? I am a geek for this stuff and there is very little written up on wedging techniques.

    Plastic Wedges are generally pretty soft. I use a Sheetrock file, “Sureform” by Stanley to reshape them and remove the mushroom. I’ll do the fine tuning with a fine wood rasp.

    For the smaller trees I split the 8" double taper. I may have to draw a picture but I place the split wedge 45 degrees or so to the bar once in deep enough. It drives to the offside hing point. I hope that makes sense. Everthing else gets the 10 double. I use the 5s for bucking wedges. All of my felling wedges are cut back to slightly less than bar thickness at the tip, This allows me more room/ larger margin with the bar. I have gotten to old to carry a saw on a fireline and haven't had a refresher in a 3 years or so and I haven't kept up with the latest techniques.

  5. #395
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    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Sierra Nevada Mtns, CA
    Quote Originally Posted by FES313 View Post
    For the smaller trees I split the 8" double taper. I may have to draw a picture but I place the split wedge 45 degrees or so to the bar once in deep enough. It drives to the offside hing point. I hope that makes sense. Everthing else gets the 10 double. I use the 5s for bucking wedges. All of my felling wedges are cut back to slightly less than bar thickness at the tip, This allows me more room/ larger margin with the bar. I have gotten to old to carry a saw on a fireline and haven't had a refresher in a 3 years or so and I haven't kept up with the latest techniques.
    I got a picture of it. There are no new techniques, just relearning of the old ones.

    On little trees when I can pull it off, I'll pull the saw out of the backcut and run the wedge parallel with the hinge wood so it doesn't bottom out.

    I got a plan for the weekend to clamp a 8" wedge into my sliding miter saw, just to see what happens.

    I only get a saw on the fireline when they are despite, there are a lot of younger, fitter folks out there.

    Thanks for the reply.

  6. #396
    Site Supporter
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    Jan 2012
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX
    "No free man shall ever be debarred the use of arms." - Thomas Jefferson, Virginia Constitution, Draft 1, 1776

  7. #397
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    Mar 2012
    Location
    Sierra Nevada Mtns, CA
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    Load from yesterday off the National Forest. Cut with a 461 with a MaxFlow air filter and a dual port muffler. After running that saw a bunch, going back to by 362 seems like time warp slow even with similar sharpen on the chains.

    I left the last 30 feet of the one Doug Fir that filled the trailer, the rounds were getting heavy to lift and I remembered I have to unload it and lift it on the splitter. The Larch filled the back of the truck.

    Today, I have done nothing after crushing myself yesterday.

  8. #398
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    Mar 2015
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    "carbine-infested rural (and suburban) areas"
    Quote Originally Posted by RoyGBiv View Post

    This is Washington state outside Seattle. As he says, the rules are anything that two people can carry into the arena (or something close to that):



    Not sure where all the weight comes from. That engine should be ~320 lbs by itself.
    .
    -----------------------------------------
    Not another dime.

  9. #399
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    Dec 2015
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    Ohio
    Quote Originally Posted by AKDoug View Post
    Other than it doesn't say Stihl on it, it should do fine I like 18" bars on 50cc saws..
    I like 16" bars....but I also have step ladder options in engine displacement. Those smaller ones rev so aggressively and handle so well with smaller bars.

    I'd check out Tsumura for a lightweight bar. Keep in mind they don't do all that much for weight, but they do wonders for how the saw handles and balances.

  10. #400
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    Mar 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeep45238 View Post
    I like 16" bars....but I also have step ladder options in engine displacement. Those smaller ones rev so aggressively and handle so well with smaller bars.

    I'd check out Tsumura for a lightweight bar. Keep in mind they don't do all that much for weight, but they do wonders for how the saw handles and balances.
    Every saw should have a lightweight bar, it’s like replacing the stock sights on a Glock.

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