LittleLebowski's big inspirational chainsaw thread

[Cookie Monster]

I found the Stihl/Pferd 2 in 1 to do quite well, and it is quick as it says the depth gauges as well. I hand file with no jig and get a 10 to 30% better cutting chain but it takes me 20 to 30 minutes on 28 inch and 32 inch chains. I do use a West Coast Saw file plate to set the depth gauges.

My hands cannot take filing 3 or 4 chains at a time anymore so trying to figure out square grinding with a grinder.

A sharp chain is critical to your chainsaw experience.

[Cookie Monster]

Question for the experienced. My saw uses Echo chain: 91PX62CQ

I know nothing about chain types and measurements, what kind of simple to use sharpener could I use on this chain that might be easier than a regular hand file?

I see Stihl has a cool 2 in 1 file tool with guides but I assume it's for Stihl specific chains with different dimensions.

Is my echo chain considered an "oregon" chain?

Edited to add: I have a dremel tool, should I use their jig and grinding stones?

It answer specific questions.

For your chains size, driver count, gauge, and pitch. It should be stamped on the bar close to the power head. You can get a 2 and 1 for your chain, Stihl chains are all industry standard sizes. There is that 1/64 difference in their 3/8 chains file size but I don’t find it really matters. I’ve sharpened chains with all manner of file sizes.

Oregon is a large manufacturer of chain. They make all kinds/specs. It is typically one of the better brands of chain.

Some guys like the Dremel. Some guys like a grinder. Some guys like the handfile.

I used to cut a lot of wood out in the bush so I focused on my hand filing.

[ccmdfd]

A sharp chain is critical to your chainsaw experience.

Absolutely!

Very similar to kitchen knives. A sharp one is actually safer than a dull one.

[Tensaw]

I found the Stihl/Pferd 2 in 1 to do quite well, and it is quick as it says the depth gauges as well. I hand file with no jig and get a 10 to 30% better cutting chain but it takes me 20 to 30 minutes on 28 inch and 32 inch chains. I do use a West Coast Saw file plate to set the depth gauges.

My hands cannot take filing 3 or 4 chains at a time anymore so trying to figure out square grinding with a grinder.

A sharp chain is critical to your chainsaw experience.

I feel your pain. 20 to 30 minutes is about what it takes me as well. I don't think I even mounted the 32" bar this winter just so I wouldn't have as much chain to file. Ran a 28". My hands do fine, but my back starts giving me fits - standing on freezing cold concrete in a shop that is nearly impossible to heat. In the summer, the shop runs out 20 degrees cooler than the ambient air temp...

This year I ended up with a large load of extremely dirty logs to buck into firewood. They had been skidded through mud, and dirt and small rocks were embedded all in the bark. I tried to clean up the places where I was cutting, but I was still killing chains left and right. I finally, no shit, got the pressure washer out hit the logs with that. That worked. Never thought I'd be pressure washing firewood, but I was spending more time filing chain than I was cutting.

RE: a sharp chain... The other day it occurred to me that I probably would have come out ahead in the long run if I had put my money into a nice, pro-grade grinder rather than a fancy powerhead. I think the chain matters more than the powerhead - most of the time.

[Borderland]

Personally, I wouldn't buy a saw under $400. Those are all throw away saws. What happens when you go to repair one is the dealer will tell you it's more expensive to repair it then replace it. It's a dealer thing to get you to buy a new saw. Just went through that with a new Stihl local dealer. I took an 036 Pro in to have it repaired. That's not a cheap saw. I think I paid ~650 for it around 10 years ago and it hasn't been used that much. Dealer calls me and says he doesn't think it's worth repairing but the only real problem he sees is the carburetor and the chain brake no worky. I can't even work on it until that's fixed so you're looking at bucks even if I can't fix it. That's a little like a mechanic saying he can't work on a car if the brakes are bad????

I have an acquaintances who is a logger so I talked to him. He said do not take that saw to a Stihl dealer. Take it to an independent saw shop for the best service and price. He recommended a shop about 50 miles from me that gets the local logger business. I'm going to burn the gas to see what that guy says. I'm not spending $750 for a new saw when the one I have can be repaired for a lot less.

[oregon45]

I'm a big fan of the Stihl sharpeners, and have two of them for different chain sizes. This video seems timely to the discussion:

[boro1]

My saw (and power tool) experiences imporved drastically when I started buying for a good dealer near me. They sold me a Stihl that's been cutting for about 10 years now. Can't remember model but it has an 18-inch bar. (Mini Rancher?)

I 'graduated" from the big box stores after that equipment kept breaking.

In my case, buying from the local dealer gets me access to repairs. And, you're supporting a local business.

I've realied on this dealer for mower, pole pruner, string trimmer and have been satisfied with them all and their advice/service.