LittleLebowski's big inspirational chainsaw thread

[jeep45238]

Another week or two and the snow will be gone enough to start back at the fuel reduction thinning on the property and heading out to the National Forest to cut firewood. Pretty excited about it.

I’ve watched all the you tube videos on the Stihl 462, looks like the saw to get. Add a lightweight bar and you’d be ripping. Maybe if overtime season is good to me, working on paying off the house so it is hard for me to make big purchases.

The mesh bug goggles have been a game changer running saws, typical safety glasses just underperform.

Gotta say I run a saw alone all the time. Need to figure out some additional controls to make sure it doesn’t go bad.

It's been 30 years since I routinely worked with a chain saw. I had a hardhat with attached earpro and a mesh full-face screen. That also made burning the brush pile tolerable. Only the bit-time pros had chippers then.

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Professi...ts/VERTEX-VENT

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3994024&rt=rud

https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Profess...s/VIZIR-SHADOW or https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Professional/Helmets/VIZEN (vizen = high probability of fogging, but full face coverage) I prefer the half face visor with a buff for coverage on the rest.



For working by yourself with no option, look into a distress beacon and keep that and a TQ on you. Petzl and Kask make great noggin protectors, and at work we require a G or E rated helmet - exception being a G/E rated helmet with vents makes it C, even though the shell is the same. Most C rated helmets are much thinner than a G/E, reducing their effectiveness in a struck-by to the head.

Making a point to stop work and head home by a set time, and letting someone know your ETA home is important too - and send help if over XYZ time late and no phone response.

https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-adv...r-beacons.html

[jeep45238]

Another week or two and the snow will be gone enough to start back at the fuel reduction thinning on the property and heading out to the National Forest to cut firewood. Pretty excited about it.

I’ve watched all the you tube videos on the Stihl 462, looks like the saw to get. Add a lightweight bar and you’d be ripping. Maybe if overtime season is good to me, working on paying off the house so it is hard for me to make big purchases.

Check out the Stihl 500i that should be out mid-2019. Fuel injected 2 stroke, highest power-to-weight ratio of any production saw. 6.8 horsepower in a 13.7 pound powerhead.


https://www.forestry.com/editorial/e...uel-injection/


I don't know what the MSRP is on one - but if you're running a saw a lot, it's got less vibration than a 462, much more rapid acceleration, about half a pound more mass, a bigger fuel tank, more fuel economy, and supposedly easier starts. For a one-time purchase that will be good for years of that sort of work, I'd be tempted to wait for the 500i.

For my intentions of outfitting two crews with mirrored equipment, I want another 362cm and 2x 462cm (same controls for the 261/362/462/661 - don't have to teach a monkey something new).

[jeep45238]

So the big thing that sets the 362 above the 261 is the 60cc vs 45? Is there anything else that sets the "pro" line above the "homeowner" line?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gI1lQSk2bQc

[jeep45238]

Neglected ground monkey saw....


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[Wendell]

Operating a chainsaw is a bit like flying an airplane; an amateur can do it, but...

I grew up in the forest industry, and I've seen a lot of chainsaw-related injuries. I've seen minor wounds to hands, arms, legs, and face, serious wounds to arms, legs, face, neck, and head, and parapalegia. I've not seen a chainsaw-related death, but that happens too. People who haven't don't seem to get it: like flying, operating a chainsaw is best left to a professional. It's just not worth the risk. It isn't. Even among professionals using the government-mandated safety gear, injuries are an ever-present possibility; virtually every one of the injuries I've seen happened to a professional user. In fact, traditionally, workman's compensation rates have been so high that most 'choppers' have been replaced by wood processing machinery. The job is that dangerous. Many who know this - including me - choose to swallow our pride, and contract out tree-felling duties to a professional.

If you insist, however, I strongly recommend taking a course in safe chainsaw operation before you undertake to practice the art (on your own).

[peterb]

For our backyard spring cleanup this year I tried using a reciprocating saw with a pruning blade. I'm impressed.



For small limbing/pruning/cleanup it seems to work well, with fewer hazards than a chainsaw.

[jeep45238]

So...picked up a Stihl MS462CM this week. 13 pound motor, 6hp, with a 20" bar and full chisel non-safety chain. Have a 25" lightweight bar coming in, and it runs the 32" bar at work as well (would put a skip tooth chain on that one).

Impressive is to say the least, and it isn't even broken in yet so the full power isn't there. Smooth, quick, powerful. Cheaper than the 500i that's coming out, obviously loose on power and torque, but have a proven fueling system.



The biggest thing I can recommend however, is the 2 in 1 files out there that Stihl sells (I think Pferd makes them?). It cuts the cutters AND the depth gauges at the same time, is fast, and man are they sharp. Sharp enough that I'm not going to bother taking my chains to our dealer for CNC sharpening.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/ch...ools/2in1file/


The other big thing is guide bar maintnence - a guide bar dressing file and a standard flat file will go a long way in making your bar last a lot longer, in addition to flipping the bar when it's sharpened/chain changed. The bar file cost me $10 on amazon, the 2 in 1 file cost me $30 at the local dealer, and the file card/brush combo cost me about $8 on amazon.

[Maple Syrup Actual]

It is indeed made by Pferd and they are amazing. As I believe I pointed out on instagram, sharpens a 20" chain in one standard beer duration (5 minutes imperial, 4 metric minutes).

I swear by them and I'm someone who has no use for knife sharpening systems because I can freehand any knife on a stone without ever looking down from a newspaper. But the speed and precision with which the cartridge allows you to sharpen a chain is just unbelievable. Total must-have for any chainsaw.

[Cookie Monster]

I got a Pferd Sharpener but have not tried it yet. I moved to all Pferd files and like them a lot. Adjusting the depth gauges always takes another run through the chain which is time consuming when you want to get work done.

The 462 seems killer. Lightweight bars make a huge difference. Even at 25” length.

The snow had been gone for weeks but life has me working on other things then the fuel reduction around the house and cutting firewood. Can’t wait to get back to it.

[Tensaw]

Does anyone have any idea how well this sharpener works? https://www.baileysonline.com/timber...sharpener.html

*Seems* pretty me-proof.