http://www.ecmag.com/section/codes-s...les-break-tabs
Found the above. It suggests that code only allows for the un grounded wire's tab to be removed and would require a double pole breaker in this instance.
Personally, I'd run two complete circuits(2 neutral, 2 hot and 2 ground wires) and feed them with a double pole breaker. Since you are in conduit already, this should be easy unless the conduit is small enough that this would over fill it.
TANSTAAFL
Managing Partner, Custom Carry Concepts, LLC
Made a little organizational progress over the last couple of weekends.
edit
will have to try to rotate photos, they uploaded at 90 degrees.
Last edited by rob_s; 08-16-2016 at 09:56 AM.
Not an electrician, but think what you said will work. Don't know of bridging is necessary.
Id suggest a full 4x8 infeed and outfeed table available for table saw. Having a full length space to handle 16' pieces in and out feed is nice at times and is part of my woodshop plan.
A router table is very nice for some tasks. (upside down router mounted)
A bench mounted belt sander is also part of my plan, though my shop will be metal/gun stuff as well as wood.
I see no problem thinking about using shotgun money for a woodshop. How many do you already have? Theres more to life than lots of guns. A good shop can bring a lot of satisfaction and fun creating things.
Last edited by Malamute; 08-16-2016 at 10:16 AM.
Speaking of electrical outlets don't forget to take the covers off at least once a year and vacuum them out. Saw dust will accumulate in them and is a fire risk, a low risk but an avoidable one. A couple years worth of saw dust, a loose connection that arcs, something flammable like oily rags nearby, and suddenly you have a shop burning to the ground. Kid proof covers on plugs will help too.
Whether you think you can or you can't, you're probably right.
My new thought on the outlets was to pop one of the knockouts out of each box and put a second box above each of the first so I could have two duplex outlets at each location with each being on a different circuit. Probably color code the boxes so I know what I'm plugged in to. and I could color-code the breakers too.
In the bottom picture you can see the chop saw and shop vac, with the extension cord running from the auto switch to an outlet on the other wall so that the vac and saw aren't on the same circuit.
Truthfully, I probably just need to get an electrician out to give me all the power I want. I should be able to have three 220/240V circuits (table saw, compressor, dust collector) and several 110V circuits so I never have a power problem. I'm not sure that the sub-panel will support all of that though.
Did you ever figure out your dust collection scheme? If not, I'd recommend this book https://www.amazon.com/Dust-Control-...=UTF8&qid=&sr= The author is a mutual friend, and I have worked in shops that he has laid out. He is the current SME in the field.
Another thing you might want to consider is some form of humidity control. For what *I* do, it is absolutely essential to a good result.
The suggestion made upthread for a cabinet-type table saw with a fixed base is a good one. Contractor's saws can be made stable enough, but to really get it dialled in, a heavy base is king.
It does take some work to lay out your shop so you can efficiently plan for your needs.
Again, another suggestion for Mr Nagyszalanczy and his books: https://www.amazon.com/Setting-Up-Sh.../dp/1561588385 Some of them might be available at the local library for perusal. I bought my copies used, because us luthiers are poor and often cheap. (or is that vice-versa?)
Lex Luthier
Last edited by Lex Luthier; 08-16-2016 at 02:14 PM.
"If I ever needed to hunt in a tuxedo, then this would be the rifle I'd take." - okie john
"Not being able to govern events, I govern myself." - Michel De Montaigne
I haven't settled on the dust collection, or table saw for that matter, quite yet. Although I'm leaning heavily towards the Ridgid table saw, understanding exactly what I'm getting into with it, simply because I don't want to sink the money into the power upgrades just yet and from everything I read the 110v "cabinet saws" aren't really up to par with the 220v versions.
I've been considering the Shop Fox Cyclone dust collector.
The Rigid/Grizzly/Craftsman contractor saws can have some alignment issues by design. Some are fine out of the box, some can be fixed, some are defective. I think the Delta 36-725 from Lowes would be a better choice in the same price range.Originally Posted by rob_s
The next step up would be a Jet Xacta or Saw Stop cabinet saw.
Whether you think you can or you can't, you're probably right.
Yep, understood. But the Delta isn't available in my area, can't even have it shipped in, and the other saws you mention push over $1k even for a "contractor" style.
Im well aware what I'm potentially getting into with the Ridgid (although the number of people that cite alignment issues and the number of people that have actually HAD alignment issue is 100:1 at least), but for me right now it's pretty much a $600 saw or no saw and the used market here is shite.
ETA:
Well hell, looks like the 725 IS available here. I even checked on the 15 amp Delta and found that Lowes will order those to our area now too. Might be considering the 725 after all. Thanks for inviting me to go look again!
Last edited by rob_s; 08-17-2016 at 04:19 AM.
This is how I get stuck on a slippery slope...
The Ridgid is $530, but the Delta is $600. So then it's not much of a jump to the Grizzly G0715P at $850, right? Except, of course, that it's not $850 it's $950 shipped and I need the mobile base at $100 shipped... What how'd I wind up with a $1k saw instead of a $500 saw?!
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