Woodworkers and Wood Shops

[pablo]

I also like pipe clamps mostly because I'm a pipe fitter and had a bunch of 3/4 stainless left over from a job so I cut and threaded a bunch of it now I dont have to worry about them staining the wood. I use the rockler ones because of the added clearance but I think some of the othe manufactures have copied the design.

What kind of stainless? I use black pipe and wax paper, I've found that galvanized pipe is too slippery.

[Rich@CCC]

I'd keep an eye out for estate sales and such. Look for an older Delta Unisaw. They don't get much nicer. I'd have one but my shop has to be all portable as it's very small and multi purpose.

I do have an old Delta scroll saw that weighs about 200lbs. I have no room for it but I will not give it up.

[rob_s]

I've been doing some more digging about re: lumber storage. Since I have so much space, and so much VERTICAL space, I want to (a) have a good supply of the basics on-hand at any time (couple of sheets of /4", couple of sheets of 1/2", various 2x, etc.) and (b) I think storing it vertically may be a better option for me. I was originally planning on doing one of these


But that's going to take up a bunch of horizontal wall space, and require a bunch of wood and time to build, and require moving it all the time to get to the back. It looks like the prevailing wisdom is that vertical storage is OK provided you provide a sloped, somewhat continuous, backing for the wood to be supported along it's length.

[pablo]

http://toolhead.co.uk/pallet-project...-made-pallets/

I made something like this without the casters. I don't keep much lumber on hand and got rid of it. It was functional as a lumber rack, but I would put some wax paper between your good lumber and the pallets to avoid staining, and go over the pallets with a fine tooth comb for wayward staples and tacks.

Now i just store everything flat on pallets on the floor.

[rob_s]

Been chugging away a bit here and there. Oddly, I went to a gun shop today at lunch and found myself thinking I'd rather spend my shotgun money on a table saw...


Got the hardboard laid down on the rolling table, now working on getting it drilled out with 3/4" holes for bench dogs, etc.



Got my shitty old vice mounted too, even though I didn't account properly for the washers. Wing nuts so I can remove it if I need the whole surface. Pink scooter as a floor creeper, pink kitty helmet 'cause safety is #1...



Going to use the drill guide to get the wholes perpendicular, and to aid in dust collection.



Planning on building a BBQ cart as my first non-shop-project.

[The Apprentice]

304 stainless never had a problem with them slipping.

[rob_s]

Got the holes drilled this AM

[EricP]

Depending on where you think you might go, I'd add a jointer, surface planer, and bandsaw.

I'll second the suggestions to go with a cabinet saw over a contractor. Look for something with a good fence, one that locks down solid and stays parallel to the blade.

My last suggestion is to base everything else off the height of your table saw. Having the ability to support heavy and expensive stock is crucial. When certain species of 3/4" hardwood plywood are over $100 a sheet, you don't want to be trying to hold the thing from falling off the back side of the saw. The assembly benches at the shop I worked in were the outfeed tables of our saws.

[rob_s]

My last suggestion is to base everything else off the height of your table saw. Having the ability to support heavy and expensive stock is crucial. When certain species of 3/4" hardwood plywood are over $100 a sheet, you don't want to be trying to hold the thing from falling off the back side of the saw. The assembly benches at the shop I worked in were the outfeed tables of our saws.

This is the reason I haven't fully locked-down on the height of the rolling work table. I plan to adjust to fit the table saw for the exact reason you mention.

[rob_s]

Any electricians around?

I should know this, being in the construction business, but my role is more about the people than the trades...

Turns out I have one wall on one 20 AMP circuit, and another wall on another 20 AMP. They are run through one conduit run from the panel around the two sides of the room, so presumably the wires for both circuits are in the pipe.

What I'd like to do is wire each duplex so that the top outlet is circuit A, and the bottom outlet is circuit B. I believe this is possible by breaking the tabs on the duplex before installing it. I believe I'd need to bridge the two breakers, for safety, so that if the top outlet trips the breaker on circuit A, it also trips B so the entire duplex is dead.

Any thoughts on this?