The only downside to the 250 is the trigger slap, which goes up with slide velocity, as best I can tell. In the rimfire guns it's barely noticeable, and in the .380, it's there but not world-ending.
In the 9mm Compact, I find it annoying enough that I wouldn't consider taking a high round count class with it, and about a hundred rounds at a sitting is testing my limits.
The .357SIG full size was painful.
And the same trigger is in the subcompact single stack P290RS, the gun that I discontinued the 2k round test after only a few hundred rounds because I just don't love my blog readers enough to go through that for two thousand rounds. Seriously, after a hundred rounds in one range session, the pad of my trigger finger was almost still too tender to type with the next day.
Will have to check that out tonight. Googling trigger slap, the LCP comes up a lot, too. My LCP Custom has been very, very hard on my trigger finger. Will look at that harder.
Another thing to learn about and figure out. My inner geek is both activated and tired.
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Not another dime.
Just messed with the P250. What I found is that if the trigger is held back all or almost all the way back while the slide cycles, there is no forward impulse on the trigger, and the reset is light and gentle. If the trigger is allowed to move forward while the slide is back, it will stop moving forward before having reset all the way, and then when the slide moves forward, the trigger will be kicked forward with significant force. There's a little less of a kick if the trigger is not all the way to the stopping point before the slide moves forward.
My trigger work is relatively slow, so that's likely a contributing factor to me not noticing the slap while shooting.
Someone who splits a lot faster and is normally approaching reset as the slide gets back in battery may get ahead of the P250. You can't get all the way ahead of it and fully reset the trigger before the slap, because if you reset the trigger while the slide is still back, it stops at the "slap pickup" point and waits for the slide to come and kick it forward. If you move your finger out of the way of the kick, you're all the way off the trigger, which lots of people try not to do. George's "flip and press" method may work well with this setup.
Another possible factor is the pistol moving and partially resetting the trigger to the point that it reaches the "slap pickup" zone just due to recoil. This would correlate to Tam's observation of the slap being more noticeable, the more powerful the cartridge. I hypothesize that stronger, more massy shooters would observe it to a lesser degree. Tam is a great shooter all around, but there's only so much she can do to grip a pistol compared to a 220-lb+ human with man hands, man arms, man shoulders and a man torso.
Would be interesting to have a matrix of shooters run these pistols in a range of calibers and report their observations.
I also found some discussion of trigger slap with P320s. I don't have one of those to investigate, but I'm curious if there's something similar.
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GunMagWarehouse is selling the P250C 22LR mags on fleabay for $16.86 shipped, which is a pretty good deal. Called Sig, and the CS guy I spoke with had to call over to the custom shop to find any inventory of replacement mags to warranty my damaged one. If you have or are about to buy one of these pistols and want a good supply of mags (plastic eventually wears out), now is probably a good time to get them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sig-Sauer-P...0/172836057704
Last edited by OlongJohnson; 09-06-2018 at 12:52 AM.
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Not another dime.
This was in the range case with my shooting gear, so it ended up at Athena Gun Club with me today when I was done shooting Wilson Combat's guns.
To reiterate, this $235 plastic paper popper is highly shootable. In one magazine, I managed to put eight rounds in one hole with two moderate flyers.
I stocked up from the GunMagWarehouse fleabay link above. Lots of new mags. I had a couple of failures to feed due to the waxy noses of the bullets sticking to the front of the magazine and holding the rounds down so they didn't get picked up by the slide. Might try polishing and/or waxing that surface.
In 9mm, I still probably want a 92D Centurion more than I want one of these, in spite of the price difference.
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Not another dime.