Send it back to the mothership. Let them deal with fixing it.Originally Posted by OlongJohnson
Send it back to the mothership. Let them deal with fixing it.
I drink LCP kool aid because my sample of two performed for me. That said, the one thing that made mine easier to shoot was replacing the factory recoil spring with a Wollf 13 lb spring. Apparent recoil was greatly reduced. The pistol was more manageable. Hence, I shot with greater accuracy. Also, I replaced the plastic rod with a Galloway Precision stainless steel rod.
J&G has some surplus Beretta 84s and 84Fs in stock - http://www.jgsales.com/beretta-84-ch...-p-101851.html, http://www.jgsales.com/beretta-84f-c...-p-101852.html
I prefer the 81/82 variants in .32 as any even lower recoiling gun and these don't have tip-up barrels, but the 84 is a light recoiling gun.
Last edited by RevolverRob; 06-17-2018 at 03:43 PM.
There are a couple specific P250 threads, but I have decided to add my P250 comments to this one, because it is the most relevant to my focus, and is the context where the P250 really shines above other options.
I picked up a P250 .22LR a few months back, have really enjoyed shooting it, and it has been very accurate for me. So I put my Beretta 84 and LCP on consignment and started stalking GB for a P250 .380. Found a SubCompact with a poorly-researched buy-it-now. It's been carried and shot some. I had to detail strip it to get the Florida sand out of it. I hadn't bothered to get into the P320 previously, so I hadn't figured out how the FCG separates from the grip module. I love it. The ability to so easily get all the moving parts out of the thing that makes them hard to clean is awesome, and you can thoroughly wash the grip module with Dawn, warm water and a bottle brush.
Further, stripping the trigger, trigger bar and slide catch from the FCG is super easy and intuitive. The pins that have to be pushed can be moved with finger pressure, no punches required. While I had it apart, I made sure I understand how it all works. I noticed that the trigger bar had some burrs around the edges from the stamping process. In particular, the hammer hook had a notable burr right on the release edge.
I spent a few minutes deburring the trigger bar so the hook engagement surface is actually sorta flat and generally burr-free. The ramp surface that rides on the pin to disengage the trigger bar from the hammer was in as-stamped, fully rough condition, so I smoothed it. Same with the bent tab edge that rubs the side of the FCG frame, and I knocked the top of the roughness off the frame where it rubs. Touched it all up (except the frame, of course) with cold blue. Cleaned everything in alcohol to make sure the stoning swarf didn't go back in the gun. Springs are all untouched. Thoroughly lubed it. Put it back together in the Compact/medium frame that came with the .22LR and did some dry firing.
Holy Cow! This trigger is exceptionally smooth, and also light. Previously, you could feel the roughness of the disengagement ramp, and there was a distinct stacking right before the break, likely due to the engagement of the trigger bar with the hammer rotating onto the burr and dragging as it disengaged. All that is gone. It's just smooth, like a Beretta D model but lighter. As a DAO dork, I'm very pleased and impressed so far. Can't wait to get to the range.
At this point, I fully intend to repeat the treatment on the FCG that came with the .22LR, although it is better out of the box than the .380 was. IMO, this falls squarely under my argument that using gun parts to shape metal rather than using metal shaping tools is a waste of time and ammo. The material removed would eventually be mostly/sorta/kinda removed from use, but not without causing excess wear to the opposing surfaces, possibly deforming them outside the design parameters. And there's no reason to expect that the worn surfaces would necessarily ever be made flat. By carefully removing material in a controlled, observed manner without causing wear on the opposing surfaces, the machine is brought into a better condition, able to operate more effectively from the beginning. To the extent that the surfaces now "wear in" to each other, they are starting in a smoother, more uniform condition. There are no more high points and burrs to cause adverse wear (grooves, gouges, etc.) on mating surfaces. A better final result can be expected, and it will likely be arrived at in less use. And it's pretty sweet already.
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Not another dime.
Sounds sweet. Are you going to put the .22 in the subcompact module?
The issue with this would be the .22 and .380 Only have one size of magazines (Compact)
True, the .22LR is only supplied as a compact.
The .380 was supplied as a SubCompact with or without (what I got) a rail. It has a 12-round mag. The SubCompact grip module is only supplied in "small" trigger reach.
The .380 slide is only available in SubCompact length. When supplied as a Compact with 15-round magazines, the grip module was literally a normal Compact grip module that Sig just cut shorter. So any P250/P320 compact grip module can be used, it just has to be trimmed to look right.
CDNN is currently blowing out both the 12-rd SC and the 15-rd Compact mags for $19.99. They will likely be difficult to find and expensive once those are gone.
Per above, nope.
I haven't decided what module I'll use on the .380 yet. The SC has a small reach. I think my hand works a lot better on the medium, but we'll see. I have an X-grip adapter on the way to try the C mags in the SC grip module. Maybe carry the SC module with C mags for reload? I also expect to share it with small people who have smaller hands. Not sure whether it will be better for them to go with the SC/Cmag combo or spend the $33 for a C/small module.
Last edited by OlongJohnson; 10-13-2018 at 11:42 AM.
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Not another dime.
thanks for pointing this out to me from our PMs.
My wife has a Compact-framed P250 380, the one that uses the 15 round mags. They were about $40 each when she got the gun, and so I went ahead and bought her a bunch more thanks to you pointing this out!
As an aside, she generally likes the P250 and it provides her with a gun that meets IWBA defined "marginal" performance but with 16 rounds, low recoil and easy slide manipulations. She had a lot of trouble with it in the beginning where it had a LOT of light strikes, and it turns out the firing pin roll pin was installed incorrectly and impinging free movement of the firing pin. Since then it hasn't had any trouble.
However, the recoil spring is almost too light....even after cleaning and lubrication, it's very weak going into battery. I've been wondering if I could get a different, stronger spring (maybe a regular 9mm P250 spring?) and cut it down so it's not too strong, but a touch stronger than the standard spring. If there were a Wolff +10% spring for the P250 380, that'd probably be perfect.
The other thing I was wondering is if there's a light that would fit on the P250 380 Compact, which as OolongJohnson pointed out uses a Compact frame cut down to Subcompact length. My Surefire XC1 doesn't fit it, so I might have to start buying lights and testing. My top two guesses were one of the TLR-6 rail versions and a TLR-3. Anyone have any input?
Last edited by TGS; 10-23-2018 at 06:13 PM.
"Are you ready? Okay. Let's roll."- Last words of Todd Beamer
Update on the P250 .380.
Had some issues with Geco ammo on the first range trip. Every other brand I took ran 100 percent, so for now, I'm mostly attributing it to the ammo. I have 200 rounds that have been reworked using a Redding taper crimp die and plunk into a Wilson case gauge perfectly, so that will be my next range trip. We'll see.
https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....l=1#post802772
I also did some cleaning. Got after the chamber with a bronze brush and some Hoppe's No. 9. Took some carbon out of it.
I had not bothered to do my usual strip/inspect/detail of the magazines before shooting them. Went straight from the package to the range. I never do that, except for this time.
There is a lump of casting flash on the left rear corner of the follower, in addition to the usual rough edges and parting lines. The two mags I'd set apart due to more/worse failures had a bigger lump there than others, although one not set aside was similar to them. Don't know if that was a factor, but I deburred/smoothed them as I usually do. Everything else about the magazines looked great. Feed lips were beautiful, the quality appearance most of us wish was found on everything Sig.
Last edited by OlongJohnson; 10-27-2018 at 07:59 PM.
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200 rounds ran perfectly. Zero hiccups of any kind. The only problem was not having brought a fifth box of ammo.
Figure it's about ready to start vetting with some XTPs.
I added some foil tape to the inside of the dust cover on the Compact frame where it extends ahead of the slide. That seems to be holding up quite nicely, keeping it from embedding soot into the plastic.
Last edited by OlongJohnson; 11-04-2018 at 07:15 PM.
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