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Thread: Tumbling, how do you do it?

  1. #1
    Site Supporter Slavex's Avatar
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    Feb 2011
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    Tumbling, how do you do it?

    I used to be dry tumbler, 3 tumblers going pretty constantly, a big Dillon doing a pre-clean, a Frankford Arsenal doing a main clean and then another cleaning the lube off my loaded rounds. But then I got a nice lead test done and triggered a big health Canada investigation as to why my lead levels were so high, they figured had to be work related. During the investigation we tested the floor around my tumblers and bench, which of course came back with a high lead level, we then went 3 floors up to my spare bedroom and tested the dust, almost the same levels of lead in that dust. My first response was to get a RCBS enclosed media separator and then wet the media down and use dryer sheets in the tumblers and to wear a respirator when separating. This helped, but there was still dust being tracked throughout my house. I finally bought a stainless steel wet tumbler, the Frankford Arsenal Rotary Tumbler (FART as it's known on many boards) and never looked back. Yes there is a tiny bit more time spent getting the cases dry, media separation and rinsing is a bit longer than with dry as well, but the end result is worth it. All the crap goes down the drain and not up into the air. Our city can handle the waste, so I'm not worried about that. I now have incredibly clean, shiny brass and no more lead.
    ...and to think today you just have fangs

    Rob Engh
    BC, Canada

  2. #2
    I stopped dry tumbling a while back. I had elevated lead levels, but not enough to cause red flags. I was running one Dillon 750 in a garage which was pretty well ventilated, but I guess even my best precautions didn't help. I'm guessing a major contamination operation was using the case separator which caused a lot of dust to go airborne.

    I went with two Hornady ultra sonic cleaners which clean inside and out. It doesn't make the outer surface of the brass as polished, but the reduced lead is well worth it. I have several mesh bags that I put the brass in after cleaning, and then hand them up while a big fan blows them dry. I used the Frankford Arsenal case dryer for a while, but I found that even on the hottest setting water would still be inside the cases and the high heat really tarnished the brass. With my mesh bag setup I walk by and bounce the brass around in the bag every now and then to ensure all the water is drained. When I don't feel any more water dripping from the bag, after agitating, then I know it will be dry soon.

  3. #3
    I have always used an ultrasound, for the reasons already mentioned. It's a pain to decap it first, but I think you really have to. Am I wrong? I'd love to be wrong.

    After the water, the brass goes into a food dehydrator for drying. Works better and faster than any other drying method I have tried. Of course, the dehydrator doesn't get used for food anymore.
    Last edited by SLG; 02-02-2016 at 07:14 PM.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by SLG View Post
    I have always used an ultrasound, for the reasons already mentioned. It's a pain to decap it first, but I think you really have to. Am I wrong? I'd love to be wrong.
    Well, you don't have to decap any more than you would using a tumbler...........It should make for less lead inside the brass though if you recap before hand.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Hauptmann View Post
    Well, you don't have to decap any more than you would using a tumbler...........It should make for less lead inside the brass though if you recap before hand.
    Well, I know you CAN use an ultrasound without decapping, but my understanding is that not only does the inside of the case get cleaner, but of course the primer pocket gets some cleaning as well. I don't really dry tumble, but I've been told that you are better off keeping the primers in, so that no media gets stuck in the pocket.

    Decapping definitely makes draining the water afterwards easier.

  6. #6
    Site Supporter CCT125US's Avatar
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    I currently use stainless pins. Would never go back for reasons mentioned above.

    ETA: I also dehydrate my brass.
    Last edited by CCT125US; 02-02-2016 at 08:47 PM.
    Taking a break from social media.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by CCT125US View Post
    I currently use stainless pins. Would never go back for reasons mentioned above.
    Do you decap first?

  8. #8
    Site Supporter CCT125US's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLG View Post
    Do you decap first?
    No. I dry them for 4 hours and have never seen dampness in the pocket after decapping. (my one concern with wet tumbling) I have cycled brass 10+ times and never noticed excessive firing residue buildup in the primer pocket. Now this is on pistol brass, done on a D650. Precision rifle would be a different story.
    Taking a break from social media.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by CCT125US View Post
    No. I dry them for 4 hours and have never seen dampness in the pocket after decapping. (my one concern with wet tumbling) I have cycled brass 10+ times and never noticed excessive firing residue buildup in the primer pocket. Now this is on pistol brass, done on a D650. Precision rifle would be a different story.
    With rifle brass I clean the brass first, then resize and decap with the brass lubed. In order to remove the lube from the cases, I clean the brass again in the ultrasonic for 30min which also cleans the pockets. Quite a bit more involved, but very thorough.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Hauptmann View Post
    With rifle brass I clean the brass first, then resize and decap with the brass lubed. In order to remove the lube from the cases, I clean the brass again in the ultrasonic for 30min which also cleans the pockets. Quite a bit more involved, but very thorough.
    I do it similarly, just that I decap before cleaning. Rifle brass prep is time consuming.

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