Always check

[Hambo]

A cardinal rule of safe reloading is to always check everything you do. Even though you've loaded thousands of the same load before, look in the book before you start again. Even though you have one progressive dedicated to .45acp, verify the powder measure is throwing the right charge. Basically, double check every single thing you do and you'll be fine.

What happens if you don't? Yesterday I was loading small quantities of .30-06 for a new pistol barrel. Primers were to be Winchester WLR. There was a blue Winchester box of 100 primers laying on my bench, and I didn't look at it carefully other than to see "rifle" on it even though I had last been loading .338 WM. Why? Because I remembered that WLR are for standard and magnum loads. I loaded my few small lots of ammo and when cleaning up, I actually looked a the primer box which was labeled WLRM, or Winchester Large Rifle Magnum. WTF? What I "remembered" was wrong. Winchester Large Pistol are for standard and magnum loads, but there are two different rifle primers: WLR and WLRM. I probably could have used the WLRM primers as all rounds had starting loads, but the safe and smart thing was to pull them down and start over. All I lost was a little time, but it was not cool.

Moral of the story: you will fuck up if you trust yourself. Check everything, then check it again. Safe reloading is really about obsessive QC.

[Jared]

Moral of the story: you will fuck up if you trust yourself. Check everything, then check it again. Safe reloading is really about obsessive QC.

That right there. I've been loading for a little over 15 years, rifle, pistol, and shotgun; single stage and progressive. In all that time, I had one squib ( a shotgun shell) and no other trouble. It's all about your own obsessive QC.

I always tell anyone looking to get started that it's not a race! You might not make as many in an hour as the press advertises, but you'll be better off if you take the extra time for QC.

[JAD]

An essential part of Quality is documentation and traceability. I strongly encourage anyone who is taking up reloading to establish a part number and lot code system.

For those of you who haven't worked in a manufacturing environment, and are not comfortable with the concept of this sort of system, here is a simple version that should help you accomplish the basic goal.

For the part number, create an Excel spreadsheet which has as its left axis the part number. I create separate tabs for each cartridge that I load. For the part number it doesn't matter as long as it's unique. I use a cartridge code like 45A or 9LG followed by a – followed by a four digit serial number. For the top axis, use as many identifying characteristics as you can to help keep the part number truly unique. Examples include cartridge overall length, crimp diameter, brand of bullet, shape of bullet, weight of bullet, etc. I also make sure to include expected velocity per load book, followed by average velocity and standard deviation from Chrono data.

Make a separate Excel sheet for the lot codes. For each code, record the part number,the date,and the lot of each component used. I personally record a note when ever there is any sort of a jam or interruption in the reloading process.

I create a new lot code each time I sit down to reload, and I use a new code any time any of the components change lot codes. Creating as many lot codes as possible helps segregate inventory in the event that you find a defect.

[Jared]

I load 9mm on a Dillon. I spot check on a schedule. It works like this. I check my scale with check weights, verify it's accuracy, then check a powder charge, then the weights again. After that, I check oal and crimp on the last loaded round. I empty that bin into my ammo can and start loading the next bin full. That way, if something is off, I've only got the number of rounds in that bin that need pulled down (usually less than 100).

[Kyle Reese]

I load 9mm on a Dillon. I spot check on a schedule. It works like this. I check my scale with check weights, verify it's accuracy, then check a powder charge, then the weights again. After that, I check oal and crimp on the last loaded round. I empty that bin into my ammo can and start loading the next bin full. That way, if something is off, I've only got the number of rounds in that bin that need pulled down (usually less than 100).

I use a very similar system.

[Lomshek]

I use a very similar system.

Sounds very similar to mine.

Before I start a session I'll actuate the powder die to throw ten (10) charges and add each one onto my electronic scale. I'm looking for the throw to throw variance and the total to be within my acceptable range so I know there's not a problem causing an occasional short or over charge and that the average throw is consistent instead of just checking a few. I picked this method up from Glen Zediker's book on AR reloading.

After that I'll check my first few rounds out of each 100 or so rounds for OAL and crimp diameter.

All done with the intent to make sure nothing has changed since my last session.

This is for 9mm. For rifle I'd add a final check with a headspace gauge to make sure shoulders are set back correctly.

[JAD]

Exactly like Lomshek. I record the ranges for powder and OAL and check off chamber and primer checks in my lot sheet.

[Slavex]

I agree, I had an issue in 2013/14 when I came back from a trip, moisture had wicked into the powder measure through a crack in the casting and got into the powder I'd left in it. I just continued loading from where I'd left off, not thinking there was a problem. It wasn't until I'd blown a couple cases up, and luckily not my gun, that I decided to investigate it further. Once I found out the powder was wet I tore everything apart, got things fixed and started it all up again. Could have been a big big issue, and I should have known better

[robs9]

I reload 45,9,380. Always check powder throw manually. At first I check with my electronic scale 5 or 6 times. To check for any variation. Once satisfied, I see t up my powder Cop die, (Hornady). I also check after 10 rnds. I keep a log on date, load(grains), bullet weight,primer used, name of brass used. Then I copy all that on a small piece of paper and put it in the container. So far no squibs and no over charges. I have though not reprimerd a few and wondered where the powder was coming from in the bin. LOL😉

SENT from: My KINDLE FIRE HD

[Clusterfrack]

At the volume I reload in 9mm, I don't check powder in each case. I use the RCBS Lockout Die, which locks up the press if powder is too low or too high.