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Thread: A Pistol For Every Budget

  1. #1

    A Pistol For Every Budget

    Paul Markel just put out a video at Full30.com about the High Point pistol, and it got me thinking that having a discussion on inexpensive, reliable pistols might be a good idea. We've talked about some of these pistols before, but not all in one separate thread. We've been getting quite a few new members here that may benefit as well.

    Let's have everyone post their choices for $100-$400 pistols suitable for self defense, preferably something you have first hand knowledge of.

    Under $200 - Hi-Point C9 9mm pistol

    $300 - S&W SD9VE 9mm pistol ($289 + tax at Academy)

    $400 - Canik TP9SA 9mm pistol ($359 locally), Ruger LC9s 9mm pistol, Ruger LCP .380 pistol (both can be had locally for around $300-$360)

    Not to get us off topic, but for the budget minded I can also recommend Remora, Don Hume, and Desantis holsters, as well as a few from Blackhawk and Uncle Mikes - namely their pocket holsters. For carry ammunition, I am perfectly happy with the old Winchester white box JHP's, as well as Federal 9BP, 9BPLE, and 9MS. Not the best by a long shot, but cheap and available at Wal-Mart, or online for a great price.

    I'd rather someone buy Tom's Rangemaster concealed carry dvd, a SD9VE, a Desantis holster, and some training and carry ammo from SGAmmo, than go unarmed. As Paul Markel pointed out in his video, telling someone to save up for a Glock isn't always the best answer.

  2. #2
    Modding this sack of shit BehindBlueI's's Avatar
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    Don't forget the used and police trade in market.

  3. #3
    Site Supporter JodyH's Avatar
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    Under $200, I'd buy a used Ruger P89 or a used S&W revolver before I'd buy a Hi-Point.
    At $300 the Walther PPX is a winner.
    $400 get's you into a good used Glock 9mm.
    "For a moment he felt good about this. A moment or two later he felt bad about feeling good about it. Then he felt good about feeling bad about feeling good about it and, satisfied, drove on into the night."
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  4. #4
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    Got a glock 19 from AIM just a few days ago...359 bucks was a fairly decent deal. Shoots like a Glock, handles like a glock, takes my Glock 34 mags and I can use my toss off Glock sights laying around.

    Sent from my VS876 using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    $200 - RIA M200

    $250-$300 - SD9VE

    $350 - LE trade-in M&P or Glock

  6. #6
    THE THIRST MUTILATOR Nephrology's Avatar
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    if you can live with .40, used Glocks can be had at $250-300, less if you look hard.

  7. #7
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BehindBlueI's View Post
    Don't forget the used and police trade in market.
    Bbl (or Jody, or anyone who would know):

    Occasionally I see old steel revolvers and automatics on the 'for sale' table at my LGS.

    Is there anything that those of us that are not real firearms experts can look for when checking out these guns?

    My thinking is that an older, reliable revolver might make a good nightstand / truck gun. I'm not sure about the automatics.

    Thoughts?

  8. #8
    Site Supporter JodyH's Avatar
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    There's a black art to checking out revolvers, takes an old skool curmudgeon to do it right.

    With pistols, buy a Ruger and call their customer service line if you have any issues. Ruger has been known to replace rusted shut garage sale finds with brand new guns for free. Their customer service is hands down the best when it comes to taking care of second or third hand customers.
    Last edited by JodyH; 11-10-2015 at 10:34 PM.
    "For a moment he felt good about this. A moment or two later he felt bad about feeling good about it. Then he felt good about feeling bad about feeling good about it and, satisfied, drove on into the night."
    -- Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy --

  9. #9
    Modding this sack of shit BehindBlueI's's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_Jenkins View Post
    Bbl (or Jody, or anyone who would know):

    Occasionally I see old steel revolvers and automatics on the 'for sale' table at my LGS.

    Is there anything that those of us that are not real firearms experts can look for when checking out these guns?

    My thinking is that an older, reliable revolver might make a good nightstand / truck gun. I'm not sure about the automatics.

    Thoughts?
    I've used this basic routine for quite awhile: http://www.dayattherange.com/?p=664

    I posted this on another forum and it was pointed out it has some shortcomings. It fails to mention to check or flame cutting and to check the forcing cones for cracks. That's a valid point, in some guns more than others. Check the forcing cones for cracks and make sure the top strap isn't deeply flame cut.

    People I trust more than myself on these issues have also said his gap tolerances are too tight, especially for a self defense gun that you don't want to lock up due to some gunk. I use a calibrated eyeball and see if it looks right. I know, I know, but once you eyeball a bunch you'll know what it ought to look like, too. Just eyeball some new ones and you'll get an idea real quick. I'm more concerned with making sure the gap stays consistent as the cylinder rotates to show nothing is bent.

    I've also been told that his "timing test" is inaccurate. "His timing check is not a timing check at all but a cylinder alignment check and that can't accurately be checked with a flashlight. You need a range rod to accurately check cylinder alignment." Again, I trust the fellow who said that more than I trust myself to have it right, so take that for what it's worth.

    The final things I disagree with the article on is dry fire and screws showing signs the side plate has been off. Sometimes you just have to open the side plate for maintenance. The difference to me is if the screw head is screwed up (heh) like the wrong size screwdriver was used, there are scratches around the hole, etc. Then I'm not interested. If you don't know/care enough to not do that part right, I don't want to know what you've Bubba'd on the inside. I walked away from a Model 29 I would have really have liked to have due to evidence of Bubba work. Then dry fire. If I can't dry fire your revolver, I'm not interested in your revolver. Other than some rimfires, it's not going to hurt the gun to be dry fired. If I walk into a shop and the revolvers are zip tied shut, I'm out.

    Now, with the understanding I'm half-assed knowledgeable at best at revolver check out, I'm maybe 1/8th-assed at semi-autos. What I do know is more geared toward Sigs. This article lays it out pretty well, IMO: http://grayguns.com/guide-to-sig-sau...ol-inspection/ I also try to check approximate brightness of night sights, but I think that's about my only departure from the article. It's saved me, too. I was cash-in-hand on a P229 SAS that I wanted until I looked at the frame rails and saw it was dull silver and shiny silver on one side, it probably had been improperly lubricated for much of its life.

    I know next to nothing about polymer guns. I'd guess look at the frame rails for cracks? Make sure the trigger resets correctly, sights are still centered? I dunno. I'm 100% sure there are people here who do know, though, so I'll just say I think police trade in guns are a fairly safe bet. MOST of those are carried a lot/shot a little type guns. Maybe a new recoil spring.

  10. #10
    Walther PPS's are now under $400

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