I like M Pro 7. Odorless, soapy water-like consistency, non toxic.
I like M Pro 7. Odorless, soapy water-like consistency, non toxic.
How about just straight Simple Green?Originally Posted by Mino
“Remember, being healthy is basically just dying as slowly as possible,” Ricky Gervais
Regular Simple Green has something in it that hurts metals; especially aluminum. The Pro HD purple version was developed for and has been approved by the aerospace industry for use in airplanes (aluminum). Plus, do you know how many 32oz spray bottles you can get from one gallon of Pro HD? Over 25 bottles. You'll have some forever!
I also use 91% alcohol to remove the cleaner before re-applying lube.
Last edited by Mino; 12-09-2015 at 07:04 PM. Reason: To add something.
I agree with you Simple Green HD works great. There really isn't a need for harsh chemicals anymore. I only use break cleaner when parts are badly gummed or grimmed up. Just make sure to oil/lube everything well after use. The Simple green will eliminate almost all lubrication on contact.
The last gun I tried I used hoppes to clean and then used very very hot water to rinse it down in the sink. Never seen one so clean! Gonna keep doing it I think.
I think most folks are cognizant of the fact that while removing copper/jacket fouling from the bore may require a specialty product, gun cleaning and lubing in general is a pretty benign chore and almost anything will work unless you're operating in some extreme environment.
But some years ago, I discovered a product seldom mentioned and barely marketed towards the firearms industry; HILCO LUBE. The first time I was exposed to it, I was challenged to wipe down a gun that I considered to be "clean" ..... it wasn't nearly as clean as I had imagined.
It's a better water displacer than WD-40 and it seems to be safe on all types of finishes and plastics. It's not the best lube in the world but it's a great one-step cleaning product that leaves a light residual that doesn't get gummy with time or low temperature. It's also a great product to use on electrical components in just about every conceivable application. It contains no water and doesn't conduct electricity so you can use it on live circuitry.
HILCO products are usually only marketed towards industry and manufacturing but you can find it at many wholesale industrial/janitorial supply vendors. I use it in aerosol form and pretreated wipes.
Last edited by 41magfan; 12-16-2015 at 03:25 PM.
The path of least resistance will seldom get you where you need to be.
I don't want to touch off a land mine or anything by necroposting this thread, but on a whim I picked up a 2 oz spray bottle of Hoppes Elite Gun cleaner for $5 at Walmart a few weeks ago.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hoppe-s-E...eaner/16816079
I used it today on my VP9, and you know what, I really liked it. I'd just been using my CLP of choice (Slip 2000) so this was a first for me. The metal surfaces felt very nicely clean and free of any film or residue after my usual battery of patches, Q Tips, rags and bore brushes/mops.
Odorless, and non-toxic, I especially liked the spray bottle applicator. I was pleasantly surprised how much carbon and gunk came off on my cleaning patches.
Last edited by RJ; 01-23-2017 at 06:17 PM.
"Patches"
#RESIST
Nothing water based if you aren't detail stripping. Crap like Frog Lube when left in the gun for extended periods of time will rust parts.
As mentioned it can be quite nasty.
I'll have to revisit this stuff. I know at one point I had *a* bottle that was meant for bare metal but it may be some sort of a stainless grill version not the HD.
Ha! Means so much more coming from you too.
In addition to brake cleaner I really like isopropyl alcohol. I do follow up with some light oil afterwards. After all these years nothing has changed really.
Think for yourself. Question authority.
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