I did exactly that with an 870 and Beretta 1301. In those cases, the velcro was applied to a Cerakote finish, not bare or parkerized steel. Yes, maybe there is some sales pitch, but I don't think so. The plate with velcro vs. receiver with velcro came up in discussion with a guy who makes and sells plates with velcro. He thought sticking the velcro directly to the receiver was fine when there was a protective finish. But depending on where you live, as in rain and/or humidity, you can get moisture under the velcro depending on it's condition, the surface material, etc. So rusting with an inability to observe it or do anything without removing the velcro. Velcro is cheap, so it may not bother you. I'm fine with replacing it if the velcro has deteriorated, but I balk at doing for a simple maintenance check. In my example, the Tacstar side saddle was on the shotty when I bought it. Removing the plastic shell retention and slapping velcro on the plate was a zero additional cost modification that kept some flexibility. I bought a sling, swivels, mag follower and safety. Maybe $50 total. I've got more fully tricked shotguns so I'm satisfied with this one as it is. I'm in a desert right now, so rust is the least of my concerns. But I'm planning on a move to TN in a couple of years where rain and humidity is a big concern. So the ability to remove the plate/side saddle and keep the phosphate finish well oiled is a good thing. For what it's worth, I am doing the same thing to a Mesa Tactical side saddle. The little rubber tube that provides tensioning to the shells in the saddle has gone bad. Plus the bulk. So now I've converted it to velcro and shell cards. But like I said, if you have a Cerakote or some other highly rust resistant finish, sticking the velcro directly to the receiver is acceptable with very little downside, if any.Originally Posted by WobblyPossum
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