It's the little details that keep me coming back...thought I think some of the acting is a bit overwrought...and the inescapable and highly predictable themes of the day, homosexuality, lesbianism, racism are pushed to the forefront rather than subtly alluded to. I don't like being force fed...regardless of whether I'm sympathetic or not.
I think you bring up good points about its strong suits...for me it could be better, (and admit I am critical by nature when it comes to TV / Movies and reality), though I'd watch another season to see how it develops.
My wife enjoys it.
I'm also looking forward to the season conclusion to see how they wrap things up.
ETA: I like all the actors involved as well, which is what drew me to the show to begin with after reading a couple of poor reviews. I've enjoyed them all in previous efforts.