Inspector LSP972 is on the case. Many thanks, sir. Guess I need to start paying more attention. This is a problem as you get older and "have" all the stuff you think you need; you tend to dismiss new stuff as unnecessary (for you, aside from the stuff that is simply derp), and therefore miss out on some neat gear… whether you need it or not.Originally Posted by Tom_Jones
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Understood. But its not a crime, ya know, to use a steel frame gun for practice. The manual of arms is identical, and trust me… when the flag goes up, an experienced shooter won't even notice the recoil, and probably not the muzzle blast either (auditory exclusion, etc.).
Yes, carrying a mini-1911 and practicing with a tricked-out custom full size 1911 can trip you up on race day. But the only difference between a flyweight J frame (assuming you have identical stocks on both) and a steel one is about six ounces; and that makes ALL the difference in the world to recoil-sensitive hands.
Just a thought…
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Wow. There's your evidence, bud, if you needed any more. The back end of the cylinder is dropping under recoil, no doubt about it. Its got to be the yoke barrel flexing due to the center pin being unlocked at the recoil shield.LSP972, I rechecked the end shake of the yoke and cylinder with the trigger held back and the results were the same.
I have not used a brush on the cylinder because of the coating. However the coating was most likely compromised since I have had to retighten the barrel several times. Once I got the barrel cylinder gap too tight and the cylinder hit the barrel on opening and closing.
This is a picture of the original cylinder that s&w replaced. It was really flame cut.
That's amazing… and distressing. I'd be VERY sparing with the full-patch .357s, if I were you.
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Yep, I'm confident that adding the spring at the front of the ejector rod stopped the unlocking at the rear of the cylinder. I also believe now that the bullets at now hitting the forcing cone center the barrel is staying tight. More shooting will tell, if I shoot it anymore. I agree with the limited use of 357 mags. The 327pc is not a bad 357. Nothing like my 340pd that kills on one end and wounds on the other as LSP972 has written about. Limited 357 shooting is because of flame cutting the cylinder and not horrible recoil.
So I know what to look for in my own guns; what is wrong with that forcing cone? It looks like maybe the top inside edge is radiused, but I can't really tell.
There's nothing wrong with the forcing cone on this revolver. The bullets are hitting the forcing cone off center. When the pistol is fired the cylinder unlocks at the rear. The rear of the cylinder moves down to contact the frame. When the bullet exits the cylinders chamber the bullet is pointed at the top of the forcing hitting the forcing cone off center. In the picture of the forcing cone I had shot some lead bullets followed by copper jacketed bullets the copper jacketed bullets wiped the lead off the forcing cone were they were striking off center.
I don't mean to be trashing s&w revolvers or even this revolver. This 327 has features I want with a good trigger and very accurate. I bought this 327pc used and no telling what it has been through. I contacted s&w about this 327 and they wanted to see it. Even though I told s&w it was used. S&w replaced the cylinder and yoke but when I received it back and run the test for the center pin float the 327 was still unlocking just not as bad. I decided not to contact s&w since the unlocking was harder to prove. Either the new cylinder has a smaller outside diameter or the new yoke is stiffer and s&w most likely will say the 327 is in spec. I was thinking about what to do when I got the idea to support the center pin with a spring and set screw. So 30 minutes on a Sunday afternoon was easier than getting s&w to agree that a unsupported center pin is a bad idea. I also wanted to prove my idea would work. I have said I would not own a s&w revolver without a supported center pin like the new m69 but now I would and I would put a support for the center pin. Time will tell if other s&w revolvers develop this problem and if they do a small spring and set screw is a easy fix.
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