You should try that with one of your HKs.......for science!Originally Posted by LSP972
Yup. The carburetor cleaner (and chlorinated brake cleaner) will "turn" a polymer frame into a reasonable facsimilie of a hippie tie-dyed T-shirt.
Or so I heard...
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Already "tried it"; via not paying attention when I grabbed a can of it at Pep Boys.
Fortunately, it was only a Ruger P345 that got desecrated...
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I'm looking at a system to make the armorer's job easier. The idea is that the pistol would be detail stripped, run through the machine, dried and then reassembled with proper lube. Any issues if you're going to detail strip first?
- It's not the odds, it's the stakes.
- If you aren't dry practicing every week, you're not serious.....
- "Tache-Psyche Effect - a polite way of saying 'You suck.' " - GG
This what the local sheriff's office does annually to their issue G22s. Instead of drying, the field-stripped pistols are run through another, identical industrial-size ultrasonic cleaner, but this one has a light oil instead of solvent. That displaces all of the water. They let it drain for a while (all of this is accomplished while the in-service students are doing classromm stuff), then re-assemble the guns and return them.
They have been doing this for at least five years, on several hundred pistols, and have had no issues with it that I know of. When I was there, the issue pistol was the P226R for road troops and S&W M-64s for the jail folks. We would detail-strip them all and clean/re-lube manually... and it was a herculean task to get it all done before they were ready to shoot. According to my pal still there (who is as knowledgeable as they come), this system with the ultrasound cleaners has been a godsend, in terms of turning guns around quickly while still doing a proper job of it.
AFAIK, they don't detail-strip the Glocks unless a piece is particularly in need of serious maintenance. The revolvers get it, though, because most of them are going on 40+ years of age. The only problem with detail stripping would be keeping up with the pieces/parts for each pistol; as in, very fine mesh trays. Or, just put the stripped frames and slide in the tank and do the pieces/parts by hand.
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Last edited by LSP972; 07-28-2015 at 02:06 PM.
My understanding that oil in an ultrasonic provides very little benefit over just oil in a random container. I know that L&R specifically includes a steel dip tank for the post ultrasonic oil dip.
"The rocket worked perfectly, except for landing on the wrong planet." - Wernher Von Braun
http://www.teampegleg.com
I just can't bring myself to completely degrease a pistol that I spent some time and money lubing, not to mentioned using a toxic chemical to accomplish it. I get the desire to use an aerosol to clean, as it is a lot easier than dabbing CLP on a patch to wipe down something, but I'd rather use an aerosol CLP, or even a silicone spray rather break cleaner.
Cylinder & Slide offers the "Dunk-Kit" (I'm sure others offer a similar product). http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index....tshow&ref=Dunk
Check the "ingredients" of Gun Scrubber vs non-chlorinated brake cleaner. You may be surprised.
The aerosol allows you to get to most of the nooks and crannies that are only accessible (and sometimes, not even then) via a detail-strip. Yes, it does indeed "completely degrease" the mechanism; a situation easily rectified with a needle oiler and five minutes of your time.
Some of us have been doing this for quite some time with no ill effects. It doesn't make any sense on a Glock, since they are so easy to totally disassemble, but on something a bit more complicated, this procedure does lighten one's work load, so to speak.
While repeated and often detailed disassembly is not the best thing for a machine with moving parts, I'll confess to sloth being my motivator for doing it. Sure, it goes against some traditions; I get that, and have no issue with someone who is hesitant to do it on those grounds.
But those guys who proclaim that using automotive products or non-traditional methods will ruin your pistol, give you pimples, and is generally un-American… they can go pound sand in my world.
Because I know better.
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If you need cleaner in a can, get "NitroClean" from the local hobby store that services gas-powered RC cars/trucks/planes. The stuff is strong enough to blast away a ton of greasy grime, and is safe for plastics, and electronics. It is impossible to get a gun as nasty as a nitro car.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/nitro-clean-135-oz-tae4550
Some gun parts/areas don't want any lube or grease. The slide of a Sig is a great example. Feel free to use brake cleaner or anything else that strips lube. It shouldn't be there.
- It's not the odds, it's the stakes.
- If you aren't dry practicing every week, you're not serious.....
- "Tache-Psyche Effect - a polite way of saying 'You suck.' " - GG
Indeed… which is why I went all-electric (planes too) a few years back.
Great suggestion; it will certainly negate picking up the "wrong" can.
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