The PX4 Compact might be my DA/SA Glock 19

[Rick_ICT]

Jared is exactly right, and that pin is pretty much exactly the same length as the diameter of the safety, so if it's not dead centered it will drag. You should notice it dragging when trying to activate the decocker though.

If your "extra spring" looks like the part here:

http://www.brownells.com/handgun-par...972-56712.aspx

then that is your problem. The person who did the conversion didn't reinstall the return spring. I did have the leg of the spring pop out of the hole in the lever once on me and I didn't notice it until I had reinstalled the pin, but it was obvious it wasn't right; I sure would not have given it back to someone like that if I had been working on someone else's gun.

I wonder if the gunsmith actually removed the ball detent to do the conversion. Once you have decocked the pistol and the levers are pointed down, can you sweep them back up without any resistance? Or does it feel like you have to overcome a little bump to sweep it up?

I could see someone new to firearms possibly making the mistake of not understanding the purpose of the spring, but if you actually had a gunsmith do this conversion, you need to not use that gunsmith anymore (once they make this right).


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[Av willis]

Rick, as a matter of fact, it does not rotate up freely, once it is down, it stays down unless I apply a fair amount of elbow grease. This isn't my normal gunsmith, I went to them because my regular shop is unavailable. I think right now, timing is going to be a bitch as far as getting this right just because I need said weapon for work, and I don't really have a break in my schedule.

[Rick_ICT]

Rick, as a matter of fact, it does not rotate up freely, once it is down, it stays down unless I apply a fair amount of elbow grease. This isn't my normal gunsmith, I went to them because my regular shop is unavailable. I think right now, timing is going to be a bitch as far as getting this right just because I need said weapon for work, and I don't really have a break in my schedule.

I don't know what sort of work you do, but if it requires your being armed and this is the only gun you can carry for said job, you need to get this gun fixed NOW!.

You need to understand that the safety crossbar contains a short pin which transfers the energy from the hammer to the firing pin. When the levers are pointed down, that pin is rotated up such that the hammer cannot transfer energy to the firing pin to fire the gun. Regardless of which levers you have on the gun, even if you can pull the trigger and the hammer cocks back and falls, it is impossible to fire that weapon with the levers in the down position!

I don't think you really indicated whether you had switched over to the low profile levers or if you had the original safety converted to be a decocker only. The original safety has a lever which activates the disconnector as I recall. This would mean a dead trigger with the levers rotated down. The low profile levers don't have this and therefore you can still actuate the trigger and the hammer will cock and fall with the levers down. That does not mean the gun will fire!

You say it takes a lot of elbow grease to return the levers to their upper position. Does it take a similar amount of force to press them down? If so, I would suspect that the roll pin is protruding and dragging on the slide. It should be easy to fix, just get it driven in so it doesn't stick out in either side of the crossbar. This will booger up your slide if you keep actuating the levers with the pin protruding.

You need to find a way to get back to that gunsmith and explain how critical this weapon is, and insist they get it fixed while you wait. You really should never have modifications done to a gun you carry whether as a civilian for personal defense or as any sort of armed professional without running at least a box or two of ammo through it before trusting it for carry again.

[Edwin]

Sounds like they fucked up your gun.

[Jared]

Rick, as a matter of fact, it does not rotate up freely, once it is down, it stays down unless I apply a fair amount of elbow grease. This isn't my normal gunsmith, I went to them because my regular shop is unavailable. I think right now, timing is going to be a bitch as far as getting this right just because I need said weapon for work, and I don't really have a break in my schedule.

If it's taking that much pushing to pop the levers back up, it ain't the spring missing. I agree with the above post, either the roll pin is dragging, or something is bad wrong in there

[stimpee]

When I put my low profile levers on my compact, I had a similar issue the first few times I re-assembled and it was not due to the cross pin, but due to the spring not being engaged/installed properly. The spring was then binding and causing the lever to be difficult to move.

The little spring can be a booger until you find the technique to get it in right (which is dirt simple once you do it). Also, as others have said, the roll pin is right on the hairy edge, and has to be positioned perfectly. If the ends of the pin get deformed at all during some repeated steps of installation, it will likely not be able to be positioned properly either. Replacing the roll pin is not a bad idea when you do this...

[Av willis]

Hey all, I got my gun back today so I thought I would post a quick update.
Tuesday, I spent a decent chunk of time before work hunting for another gunsmith . To answer your question, rick, I work as an armed security guard out of a grocery store. It's quiet enough that I didn't expect to need said gun, but I kept a m&p shield in a pocket holster as a precaution. Wednesday, I went back to the original gun store between classes. I explained to them what was going on and to their credit, once they understood what was going on, they agreed to fix it. for the record, the original change was the original safety for the stealth levers. I had made the mistake of telling them that I wanted one safety exchanged for another, I didn't say anything about converting it to decock only because I thought that came with the swap. Apparently, the gunsmith was treating it as switching out one safety for another, he left the plunger spring in. Anyway, I got it back this afternoon with plenty of time to make it to my shift. I made a point of checking the action in the store this time, it's cycling normally. I'll probably test fire it this weekend to be safe, and I should be good to go from there.
I want to thank everyone for the help, your advice went a long way towards fixing a fairly simple problem.

[Rick_ICT]

Hey all, I got my gun back today so I thought I would post a quick update.
Tuesday, I spent a decent chunk of time before work hunting for another gunsmith . To answer your question, rick, I work as an armed security guard out of a grocery store. It's quiet enough that I didn't expect to need said gun, but I kept a m&p shield in a pocket holster as a precaution. Wednesday, I went back to the original gun store between classes. I explained to them what was going on and to their credit, once they understood what was going on, they agreed to fix it. for the record, the original change was the original safety for the stealth levers. I had made the mistake of telling them that I wanted one safety exchanged for another, I didn't say anything about converting it to decock only because I thought that came with the swap. Apparently, the gunsmith was treating it as switching out one safety for another, he left the plunger spring in. Anyway, I got it back this afternoon with plenty of time to make it to my shift. I made a point of checking the action in the store this time, it's cycling normally. I'll probably test fire it this weekend to be safe, and I should be good to go from there.
I want to thank everyone for the help, your advice went a long way towards fixing a fairly simple problem.

Glad you got everything worked out. It's been a couple months since I swapped my levers, but as I recall the stealth levers don't come with the safety plunger at all (because the levers are too low profile and shaped incorrectly to disengage the safety reliably). I believe it's drilled for the plunger, it just isn't installed. I guess the gunsmith could have swapped the plunger and spring over to the new levers because he thought you wanted to keep the "safety" position.

[KG]

Any recent updates about when these pistols will be available? I called Beretta a couple weeks ago and the customer service rep had no information.

Thanks

[LostDuke]

Is it possible to remove the left slide lever instead for right handed shooters? Does it work?