This. Very much this.Originally Posted by caleb
And it makes gun skool harder. By the end of Day Two of AFHF last year, I was hanging on my chinstrap. That's a lot of pistol for my skinny wrists to horse around for that high of a round count for two days in a row, which makes it hard to concentrate on all the fancy larnin' I should be doing.
I would switch to the M&P. Life is short. Why not make it easier.
RE: APEX parts - if you decide to go that route and happen to hold a C&R, since you collect, Brownell's will sell them to you about $15-20 cheaper than I've seen them elsewhere.
The M&P is only marginally more difficult to detail strip than a Glock, IMO. Biggest pain is that you'll need a roll pin punch to knock out the locking block and the sear assembly. The rest is cake.
I'm definitely in the shoot it some first camp. I like the RAM; didn't see a need to add another $90 to the cost of the gun with a DCAEK for me for carry use, though.
Last edited by jslaker; 09-03-2011 at 09:36 PM.
If the spot welds on your Dlask trigger bar separate, it wasn't my build!
Re the M&P, my opinion is, swap out the parts now for Apex parts, no point in suffering through the factory ones amy longer than you need to.
...and to think today you just have fangs
Rob Engh
BC, Canada
Honest question: have you shot a relatively recent production gun? Maybe it's me being less discerning than most (combined with years of mediocre HK triggers), but the guns S&W have been putting out lately have triggers I find thoroughly acceptable. Maybe I got lucky. Nowhere near as good as the tuned SIG I had, but certainly good enough to carry.
I'd do the RAM instantly. As Rob said, no point suffering needlessly. As for the other Apex stuff, it's certainly not necessary but if (a) you're used to tuned 1911 triggers and (b) you're buying & installing the RAM anyway, it might make sense to do it all at once.
I appreciate the "shoot it before modifying" approach and it does make sense for the first 500 or so rounds to make sure the gun actually works and doesn't need to be sent back to the factory for anything (which is true of any gun from any manufacturer).
To add a little more context to my earlier comment: at around $15, the RAM was a total no-brainer. The DCAEK being nearly 20% of the cost of the gun required more consideration.
3 of my students have newish M&Ps, being in Canada I doubt they are as current as what people are getting in the USA right now. That said, one has great factory trigger the other 2 were so bad both considered returning them. An Apex sear made a massive improvement to both. Other parts are on the way.
...and to think today you just have fangs
Rob Engh
BC, Canada
Well, I mean, it's got a trigger like a plastic pistol, you know? There's a bunch of slack, and then it stops, and then there's a kind of "griiitch-SPOINK!" and the striker goes forward. I know that it's possible to play with spring weights and sear engagement geometry to add or subtract "i's" to the "griiitch", but at the moment, it's honestly not too bad for a striker-fired plastic pistol factory trigger.
Speaking completely subjectively, it breaks cleaner than any factory Glock trigger I can remember, and the takeup, while foreign to me, is completely smooth and unweighted.
(Remember that I'm used to either DA S&W revolver triggers or ~4# thought-controlled "go-buttons", and this trigger will never be either...)
The Apex FSS trigger on my M&P Pro is simply amazing, and I bet, would meet your go button definition. Right now, I have an M&P 45 mid-size, and full size 9, both with thumb safeties, at Apex to have an FSS trigger installed, and plan to use them both as carry guns.
Reply With Quote