When to stick with or ditch LEM?

[LSP972]

This is what I was thinking, too, GJM. Looks like middlin' decent groups to me and if a bit of correction can be applied to the rear sight, this may be a winner.

Yup. But OP, check your FRONT sight first; its driftable as well. I've had several NIB HK pistols with the front sight slightly off-center.

And remember that you move the front sight opposite to the desired POI shift.

.

[Wayne Dobbs]

And if sight movement/adjustment is what you try, here's the math on how much movement is needed:

Impact error X Sight Radius (5.55" for your P2000) / Range (in inches)

So let's say you have a four inch error: 4" X 5.55"/720 (20 yards in inches) = 22.2/720 = ~.03" of sight movement needed

Hope that's of some value to you!

[bpack325]

Thank you all for such an overwhelming response!

At least it hasn't been just me that's been thrown for a loop with the LEM. At this point if I went down to a V1, the "light" LEM, would that be helpful in getting through that sharp break at the end of the trigger pull? Sort of a cheat to help get me started.

I have considered drifting the sights, but I'm waiting to get another shooter involved so I don't start drifting prematurely (It took awhile to get out of the low, left syndrome when I first shot glocks too). So, that remains an option to consider soon.

I'm running the SK with the large backstrap, which to my hand seemed the most glock-like in terms of overall feel. I have pretty average hands but can get enough meat on the trigger to pull straight to the rear (at least, that's what it felt like haha).

So far what I'm tracking is that the LEM experience can be very subjective. Overall from what I've read from you and what I do like about the system as a whole I'll give it some more time, and start with some baby steps at shorter ranges. I'd hoped to use it in IDPA since it'd be what I'd actually carry, but I don't feel as though I'm there yet.

First hurdle is dealing with the break point in the trigger, anyone think V1 would be helpful at this point? Shorter ranges and some dot drills will be on my next range trip. Grip size I think I have sorted. Sights, honestly I think its more me than them, but I'll try to sandbag it and see where it's at to make sure. Those sight adjustments will be helpful thanks!

FWIW at the last USPSA match I took my G17 out to, I did significantly better since I'd been shooting the HK almost exclusively. So perhaps some learning has occurred and it's just a long process? The P2000sk frustrates the hell out of me at the range, but damn I like it. I will take the advice you all have given and give things an honest go. Anyone else get addicted to shooting a gun that hates them?

[JodyH]

The "wall" weight is primarily the hammer spring and to a lesser degree the firing pin block spring and trigger spring.
The trigger spring and firing pin block spring make the most difference in the initial takeup.
Basically the hammer is 90% pre-cocked and you're just pressing against the trigger spring up until the "wall" which is where the firing pin block is pushed up and out of the way and the trigger press finishes cocking the hammer to 100% and then releases it.
I don't like messing with the hammer spring because I want solid whacks on the primers.
All my LEM's are standard V2 because I'm not a fan of the softer reset on the "light" LEM versions.

[SecondsCount]

The "wall" weight is primarily the hammer spring and to a lesser degree the firing pin block spring and trigger spring.
The trigger spring and firing pin block spring make the most difference in the initial takeup.
Basically the hammer is 90% pre-cocked and you're just pressing against the trigger spring up until the "wall" which is where the firing pin block is pushed up and out of the way and the trigger press finishes cocking the hammer to 100% and then releases it.
I don't like messing with the hammer spring because I want solid whacks on the primers.
All my LEM's are standard V2 because I'm not a fan of the softer reset on the "light" LEM versions.

Ditto. I have a V1 that my son shoots but my P30 and P2K are "V2"

[bpack325]

The trigger spring and firing pin block spring make the most difference in the initial takeup.
I don't like messing with the hammer spring because I want solid whacks on the primers.

Roger that, maybe I should go back to V2 to make the whole pull more consistent? Not as much of a jump between the take up and break that way? The work pistol has that 10lb Massachusetts deal so I could live with it, just tried to emulate the "V4" setup Todd had in his P30 experiences.

[JodyH]

Once you're away from the V2 the various "light" versions are very similar feeling and you don't gain a lot switching among them in my experience (especially until you really have a feel for the trigger).
In my opinion switching around through the various "light" versions won't get you anywhere.
Pick V1 or V2 and just run with it.
V1 has lighter takeup and a softer reset along with a very slightly lighter weight "wall".
V2 has a firmer takeup, less of a differential to the wall and a firmer reset.

[bpack325]

Got it, I'll go back to V2 and take it from there. Thanks JodyH!

Edit: Put it back to V2, and bingo much less discernible difference between the takeup and break. Much better starting point for me.

[GJM]

I just had a lengthy discussion with YVK about this. He is my go to LEM guy.

Here is what we concluded. Devote yourself to the LEM for twenty years, but after ten if your POI is still right, you can consider drifting the sight slightly left for your second decade with it.

[JodyH]

Is GJM turning this into another pistol buffet advocacy thread?